(54kms)
From Canterbury - 2074 to Rome 0
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233177007
When planning the day's ride, the first stage of about 32kms was fine, mostly on smallroads and farm tracks, so we ticked that. Ms Vee had her own ideas about the 2 subsequent stages though. "Difficult terrain with many obstacles and a dangerous river crossing" We decided that this was not the day for such niceties and agreed we would stay on the tar for those sections.
After a great breakfast we said farewell and turned the bikes for Rome. The first stop was at Sutri, small village a few kilometres outside Capranica where thousands of years ago the people quarried the volcanic rock, dug out living space and even created a whole amphitheatre from a volcanic promonotory. Interesting to see.
We left Sutri and looked to rejoin the track. While we were stopped a little further on trying to decide which way to go, I saw a sign that simply stated "Roma 50"
At that point I knew that my intimate relationship with Ms V had run its natural course and in fact the amazing treatment and meal on the last night was a fitting end We are now just good friends.
I turned to Keith and said "let's just get to Rome". And so we rode the SS2 all the way to Rome. A very busy road but safe enough At 13:00 exactly we arrived at St Peter's Basilica and the ride from Canterbury was done. It ended, neither with a bang nor a whimper, but a husky throat and a glisten of tears in the eyes.
Thank you all for the encouragement, kind words and enormous support on the adventure. It helped in tough times to know you were there and in good,happy,laughing times - which was most of the time - I knew you would be smiling along with me.
A massive thanks to Keith for joining me this week. It has been wonderful for us to share time together. I've loved having him along to experience the joys and trials Ms VF hands out. Also, considering the very tough day to Radicofani and the variety of bike problems, Keith's presence and patience and quiet assistance when I needed it most helped me make light of what would have been a very tough last week on my own.
Monday, October 1, 2012
Friday, September 28, 2012
Grateful thanks from FTH:K for the donations
Thank you very much to everyone who has donated funds for FTH:K through support for my ride.
We have managed to raise R18 350.00 so far through various donors and pledges.
I would like to acknowledge the following donors with thanks for their very generous contributions.
The Ackerman Foundation R5000.00
Ivan Jenkins R5000.00 (M2NORTH)
Dennis Cope R1500.00
Kerry McElwee R1000.00
Elred Lawrence R1000.00
Craig Woods R1000.00
Derek Rushmere R500.00
Colleen Sutherland R500.00
Karen Fletcher R500.00
Bez Bezuidenhout R500.00
Nick Schild R500.00
The Bergvliet Lions Club R500.00
Joy Jack R300.00
Adrian Naude R250.00
K Naidoo R250.00
Manager at the Hotel on the Grand Col Eu5.00
Monthly Pledges Colin Scholtz R50.00 per month for 2 years
And a special thanks to all of you who entered the Pick nPay Fresh FM competition
The results will be published next week.
Please make sure that Ana of FTH:K knows of your pledge or donation so that I can add my thanks here on this blog.
Keep those donations coming and do encourage your friends to do the same.
Follow me on: Facebook - Elred Lawrence Twitter - @ElredL This blog - www.cyclingtorome.blogspot.com
We have managed to raise R18 350.00 so far through various donors and pledges.
I would like to acknowledge the following donors with thanks for their very generous contributions.
The Ackerman Foundation R5000.00
Ivan Jenkins R5000.00 (M2NORTH)
Dennis Cope R1500.00
Kerry McElwee R1000.00
Elred Lawrence R1000.00
Craig Woods R1000.00
Derek Rushmere R500.00
Colleen Sutherland R500.00
Karen Fletcher R500.00
Bez Bezuidenhout R500.00
Nick Schild R500.00
The Bergvliet Lions Club R500.00
Joy Jack R300.00
Adrian Naude R250.00
K Naidoo R250.00
Manager at the Hotel on the Grand Col Eu5.00
Monthly Pledges Colin Scholtz R50.00 per month for 2 years
And a special thanks to all of you who entered the Pick nPay Fresh FM competition
The results will be published next week.
Please make sure that Ana of FTH:K knows of your pledge or donation so that I can add my thanks here on this blog.
Keep those donations coming and do encourage your friends to do the same.
Follow me on: Facebook - Elred Lawrence Twitter - @ElredL This blog - www.cyclingtorome.blogspot.com
Day 33 Bolsena to Capranica (Friday 28th September)
(63 kms)
From Canterbury 2002 kms to Rome 72 kms
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176854
Then Ms V played her trump card. "Wouldn't the boys like to take an alternate route, it's shorter and you can ride around the ridge of a volcano?" The boys thought was a great idea and set of eagerly. 2kms down the road we enter a forest on a steep single track, muddy, rocky, gullies everywhere,covered in wet,slimy,slippery leaves. For me, impossible to ride, for Keith, a challenge! I don't think he pushed his bike much but I did, most of the way. Over 6kms straight up the side of the volcano in impossible conditions. As always, you think relief must be just around the corner but it goes on and on and on. Buckets of sweat later we emerge at the top onto a tar road and it starts to rain! Thank goodness that was short lived. We did stop to look at the beautiful lake and verdant green farmlands inside the crater.
Our reward, though, was a superb downhill ride at great speed on the tar road all the way into Capranica. Our B&B is about a kilometre outside the town up a steep hill - as we have come to expect and we were concerned about getting back into town for supper. I also wanted to do some laundry. Our host made us warmly welcome. He let us use their washing machine and agreed instantly when I enquired whether it would be possible for them to provide us with supper as well.
So we have just finished supper,
Aperitivos: Three types of ham, 5 types of cheese and a basket of fresh bread along with cold water and a litre of red wine. Perfect supper for us we thought.
Primi Piatti: Wide tagliatelli, fresh pasta, cooked with a fresh mushroom sauce and parmesan cheese. Perfect supper for us we thought.
Secondi Piatti: An expertly cooked, plate sized, steak with a fresh garden salad of rosa tomatoes and lettuce. Perfect supper for us we thought.
Just in case you're still peckish: A large, plate sized, thin slice from a huge mushroom, crumbed and deep fried.
Dessert: Home made grape tart and several bunches of fresh grapes
Coffee
What a wonderful meal to celebrate the final supper on the road, I could not have scripted it better if I tried. Then when Keith went to hang out the washing he found it already done.
Awesome B&B Monticelli in Capranica. Pilgrims take note
Day 32 Continued.......
I was working on the blog about midnight last night and I wanted to tell you about the very good meal we had, when the cursor moved to the picture and refused to come back to where I was writing. Irritating!
Anyway, we decided to follow Sylvia's experience and eat at a restaurant on the lake. The one on stilts in the pic on facebook was closed so we went to another in a hotel nearby. The waiter highly recommended the Ceviche of Coregone (which is the lake fish). That was really excellent. Then, in keeping with the theme, I ordered grilled Coregone with a mixed salad, that too was just perfect, and Keith had Papardelle with pork that he pronounced delicious. Desert was a cinnamon semi-freddo with green apple sorbet. I want to make that at home, it is fantastic
Thursday, September 27, 2012
Day 32 Radicofani to Acquapendente and Bolsena (Thursday 27 September)
(60kms)
1934kms from Canterbury - 140kms to RomeGarmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176616
http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176734
There are good days and tough days and experience days. Today is one of the latter. After a quick morning coffee we set off for Acquapendente. A 32km cycle that the guide book said would be easy going for cyclists. The first 10kms flew past as they were all downhill. Having said that, it was all on gravel road with very loose stone covering a rocky bumpy surface so care was needed in the descent. A short stint followed on a tarred section, then we took the turn back onto the gravel road. Barely a kilometre down the road, "twang twang" two of my spokes broke and wound themselves around the hub. Repair time.
mI still have two spare spokes but having removed the broken ones I saw it is not possible for me to replace these because, like in Lausanne, the gear mechanism must be removed first. When I put the wheel back on, sans 2 spokes, I found that the rim had buckled and the wheel would not turn very easily. The solution was to disconnect the back brakes and then ride with the tyre scraping on the frame at a point every revolution. Not good and certainly not sustainable. We turned back to the tar road and, thanks to Keith and Google maps, navigated our way gently to Acquapendente. So much for our lunch by the lake in Bolsena! As luck would have it we found a cycle shop but we arrived just on 13:00 and the shop is closed for Siesta until 15:30. So we had lunch and rested in a park waiting for the shop to open. The cycle shop owner was happy to help in an emergency and within an hour he had replaced the spokes and sorted out the buckled rim.
Fortunately Bolsena is only 20kms away and we made good time getting here. It is a lovely town on the edge of a beautiful lake. All in all a very good day despite the mechanical failures. I am blessed that I did not have the problem yesterday, that would have been very difficult to resolve. So onward to Caprianica tomorrow, our last stop before Rome.
Supper!
From Sylvia's blog I learned that the fish from the lake is excellent to eat so I was determined to try the Lake fish at a restaurant on the Lake. Be it for lunch or supper
Wednesday, September 26, 2012
Day 31 Ponte d ' Arbia to Radicofani (Wednesday 26th September) (
(74kms)
1880kms from Canterbury - 194kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176370
I've had uphill days and downhill days. This one, undoubtedly, is classified as a yo-yo day. We rode the first 40kms along gravel roads across the rolling hills. The views were unforgettable but the going was slow. These roads demand respect so concentration is needed all the way. We stopped in Torrenieri for breakfast. Not a km too soon as we were starving and very thirsty. Some 12kms later we arrived in San-Quirico-d'Orica after a long uphill cycle. A very interesting town, as we have seen before, a fortress town with narrow streets, high on a hilltop surrounded by a wall. A quick lemon soda and a cuppa coffee and we were on our way with rain threatening. Now we begin the "strenuous and difficult uphill stage" The guide was accurate it was a yo-yo of up and down but not rolling hills, up a serious hill and then down to the valley only to be repeated time and again. To say we went from 200 metres to 800 metres is misleading because we did it several times. At one point Keith pointed out an ancient castle lookout tower on a mountain way in the distance across several hills and valleys and said "that's our destination" It was so far away I could not envisage it. Here is a picture when we were a lot closer.
1880kms from Canterbury - 194kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176370
I've had uphill days and downhill days. This one, undoubtedly, is classified as a yo-yo day. We rode the first 40kms along gravel roads across the rolling hills. The views were unforgettable but the going was slow. These roads demand respect so concentration is needed all the way. We stopped in Torrenieri for breakfast. Not a km too soon as we were starving and very thirsty. Some 12kms later we arrived in San-Quirico-d'Orica after a long uphill cycle. A very interesting town, as we have seen before, a fortress town with narrow streets, high on a hilltop surrounded by a wall. A quick lemon soda and a cuppa coffee and we were on our way with rain threatening. Now we begin the "strenuous and difficult uphill stage" The guide was accurate it was a yo-yo of up and down but not rolling hills, up a serious hill and then down to the valley only to be repeated time and again. To say we went from 200 metres to 800 metres is misleading because we did it several times. At one point Keith pointed out an ancient castle lookout tower on a mountain way in the distance across several hills and valleys and said "that's our destination" It was so far away I could not envisage it. Here is a picture when we were a lot closer.
And some other fun pics. See below how well signposted the Via is in Italy.
Some friendly horses we met on the way. The third picture is for Simisha to show it is possible to get a good nap on the trail thanks to kind people who leave comfortable car seats in the middle of the bush. The rest are scenery. The last is of a Sheepdog very protective of his flock of sheep as we rode by. After 10 hours on the road and 7.5 hours cycling time we were very grateful to see Radicofani in sight and we were warmly welcomed at the hostel. Have had supper and now it's bedtime for two fairly exhausted pilgrims
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Day 30 Abadia-a-Isola to Ponte d ' Arbia (Tuesday 25th September)
(48kms)
1765 kms from Canterbury - 309kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176616
Up early for breakfast of toast and jam and tea. I told you about Mario's farewell ceremony, then on our way the the castle town of Montereggioni. Uphill of course!
Quite an incredible complete town within an ancient massive castle dominating the horizon and over looking the valleys on all sides. Then on to Siena, a beautiful picturesque city, very ancient with an incredible Cathedral and Piazza. As alwaya we stopped for a drink then onward to Ponte d'Arbia In terms of time and distance it was a short day. The cycling was magnificent. The rolling hills have become more gentle, the tracks (mostly) were solid and fairly easy to ride. We had some testing uphills and some exhiliarating downhills but mostly just good fun riding up and down the hills. The scenery is beautiful and so picturesque. We met several pilgrims en route and we are all staying together in the same pilgrim hostel tonight.
Dinner in the restaurant over the road from the hostel was excellent. We had Bresaola Carpaccio, Peci (which is a thicker spaghetti with mushrooms and sausage), gnochetti with pesto and gorgonzola, I had rabbit and baked vegetables and Keith had a great pizza. A bottle of Montepulciano Red, coffee and Grappa just made it perfect. Now it's bedtime, tomorrow promises to be a punishing day. Arrivederci
1765 kms from Canterbury - 309kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176616
Up early for breakfast of toast and jam and tea. I told you about Mario's farewell ceremony, then on our way the the castle town of Montereggioni. Uphill of course!
Quite an incredible complete town within an ancient massive castle dominating the horizon and over looking the valleys on all sides. Then on to Siena, a beautiful picturesque city, very ancient with an incredible Cathedral and Piazza. As alwaya we stopped for a drink then onward to Ponte d'Arbia In terms of time and distance it was a short day. The cycling was magnificent. The rolling hills have become more gentle, the tracks (mostly) were solid and fairly easy to ride. We had some testing uphills and some exhiliarating downhills but mostly just good fun riding up and down the hills. The scenery is beautiful and so picturesque. We met several pilgrims en route and we are all staying together in the same pilgrim hostel tonight.
Dinner in the restaurant over the road from the hostel was excellent. We had Bresaola Carpaccio, Peci (which is a thicker spaghetti with mushrooms and sausage), gnochetti with pesto and gorgonzola, I had rabbit and baked vegetables and Keith had a great pizza. A bottle of Montepulciano Red, coffee and Grappa just made it perfect. Now it's bedtime, tomorrow promises to be a punishing day. Arrivederci
Day 29 San-Miniato to Abadia-a-Isola (Monday 24th September)
(78kms)
1702 kms from Canterbury - 372kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176140
The trail to Gambassi-Terme was tough. 24kms seems innocous enough. I've done it many times and today should be a breeze - I thought. Then Ms V introduced us to the rolling hills of Tuscany. First you ride to the top of one, getting you up to around 500 metres altitude, then you ride country gravel tracks and single tracks over hill and dale. Many ups, many downs but often on slippery, loose stone which is very difficult to ride on whether up or down. Not many pictures were taken and not much lighthearted banter passed between us as all breath was used for panting.
We were happy to see Gambassi on the horizon, but of course it is a hilltop town so much effort is expended just getting to the centre. I've got Keith hooked on my current favourite brew - lemon soda - so we stop for a quick one then off to San Gimignano. This is an interesting city, as many are in this part of Italy, it is a walled city with very interesting architecture and narrow streets. Here we stopped for lunch. There are so many tourists there who took an interest in the two cyclists. We spoke to Canadians, Americans and some South Africans who now live in New Zealand. We had a leisurely lunch until the weather changed, the wind came up and a storm threatened. Nothing quite like that to get you going as quickly as possible. So we made haste to Abadia-a-Isola where we were made warmly welcome by Mario, the manager of the pilgrim hostel. Mario is a very warm kind-hearted soul who takes his function very seriously. There was a French couple and an Italian lady there when we arrived. We were all invited to dinner which was a simple meal of toast with a very nice pork and chili pate followed by pasta in a bacon and tomato sauce, followed by a mushroom tortilla with tomato salad. Really delicious and enjoyed together in a lighthearted camaraderie. That was special.
Mario also performed a ceremony of washing the feet of the pilgrims before supper. It was strange for us but very moving as he washed our feet and dried them after saying a prayer for our health and welfare on the journey. (Good thing we had a shower first.!)
Before we left this morning he had another brief ceremony blessing us for the journey ahead. It is touching and fulfilling to know someone cares so much that this is his life's purpose.
1702 kms from Canterbury - 372kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176140
The trail to Gambassi-Terme was tough. 24kms seems innocous enough. I've done it many times and today should be a breeze - I thought. Then Ms V introduced us to the rolling hills of Tuscany. First you ride to the top of one, getting you up to around 500 metres altitude, then you ride country gravel tracks and single tracks over hill and dale. Many ups, many downs but often on slippery, loose stone which is very difficult to ride on whether up or down. Not many pictures were taken and not much lighthearted banter passed between us as all breath was used for panting.
We were happy to see Gambassi on the horizon, but of course it is a hilltop town so much effort is expended just getting to the centre. I've got Keith hooked on my current favourite brew - lemon soda - so we stop for a quick one then off to San Gimignano. This is an interesting city, as many are in this part of Italy, it is a walled city with very interesting architecture and narrow streets. Here we stopped for lunch. There are so many tourists there who took an interest in the two cyclists. We spoke to Canadians, Americans and some South Africans who now live in New Zealand. We had a leisurely lunch until the weather changed, the wind came up and a storm threatened. Nothing quite like that to get you going as quickly as possible. So we made haste to Abadia-a-Isola where we were made warmly welcome by Mario, the manager of the pilgrim hostel. Mario is a very warm kind-hearted soul who takes his function very seriously. There was a French couple and an Italian lady there when we arrived. We were all invited to dinner which was a simple meal of toast with a very nice pork and chili pate followed by pasta in a bacon and tomato sauce, followed by a mushroom tortilla with tomato salad. Really delicious and enjoyed together in a lighthearted camaraderie. That was special.
Mario also performed a ceremony of washing the feet of the pilgrims before supper. It was strange for us but very moving as he washed our feet and dried them after saying a prayer for our health and welfare on the journey. (Good thing we had a shower first.!)
Before we left this morning he had another brief ceremony blessing us for the journey ahead. It is touching and fulfilling to know someone cares so much that this is his life's purpose.
Day 28 Lucca to San Miniato (Sunday 23rd September)
(53kms)
1658 kms from Canterbury - 415 kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175772
We were awake early and ready for a new adventure. First a ride around the wall, wonderful experience on a beautiful cool and sunny Sunday morning. At that time of day there are but a few runners and dog walkers so it's quiet and peaceful. By 09:00 the wall was already starting to get busy. But by that time we had been for coffee and were relaxing with a sandwich for breakfast.
The ride from Lucca to Altopascio and thence to San Miniato was mostly on tar,through small villages. There was a stretch for about 700 metres that is a section of the original pilgrim road. Very rocky and difficult to ride but it added authenticity to the experience. we arrived in San Miniato in the mid afternoon and cycled up the hill to to top part of the city where the Cathedral and convent are located. There was a sports festival happening with all of the townspeople either demonstrating or participating. After a quick look around we headed back down to our accommodation in the lower part of the town.
It is interesting, the paramedics and emergency organisation called "Misericordia" keep a room with 6 beds and a shower to be made available to pilgrims only for a small donation.
What amazing support for the Francigena pilgrims. In the evening we went back up to San Miniato Alto for a good supper of pasta and pizza. All in all a great day as an introduction for Keith to the Way. More pictures of the day.
1658 kms from Canterbury - 415 kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175772
We were awake early and ready for a new adventure. First a ride around the wall, wonderful experience on a beautiful cool and sunny Sunday morning. At that time of day there are but a few runners and dog walkers so it's quiet and peaceful. By 09:00 the wall was already starting to get busy. But by that time we had been for coffee and were relaxing with a sandwich for breakfast.
The ride from Lucca to Altopascio and thence to San Miniato was mostly on tar,through small villages. There was a stretch for about 700 metres that is a section of the original pilgrim road. Very rocky and difficult to ride but it added authenticity to the experience. we arrived in San Miniato in the mid afternoon and cycled up the hill to to top part of the city where the Cathedral and convent are located. There was a sports festival happening with all of the townspeople either demonstrating or participating. After a quick look around we headed back down to our accommodation in the lower part of the town.
It is interesting, the paramedics and emergency organisation called "Misericordia" keep a room with 6 beds and a shower to be made available to pilgrims only for a small donation.
What amazing support for the Francigena pilgrims. In the evening we went back up to San Miniato Alto for a good supper of pasta and pizza. All in all a great day as an introduction for Keith to the Way. More pictures of the day.
Day 27 - Lucca Rest Day (Saturday 22nd September )
The Leaning Tower
The River in Pisa
Waiting for a train in Pisa - going to Lucca
We caught the train to Lucca and settled in the hostel, just in time to take a stroll through the streets and allow ourselves to be admired by the evening crowds. We stopped at a little Cafe called "La Tana del Boia" where we had excellent beer, not Guiness though. A wheat beer in style made from Farro which is a European variety of wheat we call "Spelt" the friendly owner made us aperitivos - an appetiser of bread, cheese and parma ham.
Then to Da Leo for another delicious meal. Keith really enjoyed the Tortellini. Back to the hostel to prepare for the ride tomorrow.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Day 26 - Fiumaretti to Pisa to Lucca (Friday 21st September)
(67 kms)
From Canterbury - 1626 To Rome - 448
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175687
After a good breakfast, I left Fiumaretti to ride the 25 kms I was short the previous night to Pietrasanta. It was a good brisk ride along flat roads next to the Mediterranean. Pity I could not see it as every inch of the space between the road and the beach is taken up with restaurants, clubs, camping and holiday resorts. At Pietrasanta, I checked the routes and decided I really wanted to get to Lucca and not bundu bash for the day. So I stayed on the tar. The road to Lucca goes via Pisa so I stopped there for a drink - lemon soda is my latest craze.... and yes the tower is still leaning! I asked a policeman for directions to Lucca and he showed me the way, remarking that there is a steep hill climb on the way. That did it for me. I'd already ridden 67kms and was not in the mood for another 20 something with a steep hill. I went to the railway station and caught a train to Lucca as they have trains that take bikes.
I arrived in Lucca about 14:00 and easily found my way to the hostel...... simply ride on the wall until you get to the part of town you need. How cool is that? No traffic lights, no one way streets, no cars, excellent.
Keith booked us into a good hostel where I am staying tonight and we'll stay tomorrow.
On arrival I had 2 major priorities. First, laundry, second, take the bike in to be serviced. It has been creaking and groaning a lot the last 3 days. We had a serious chat, my bike and me, and I promised that if it gets me to Lucca I'll take it to the clinic (of course, you understand that was the main motivation behind catching the train, so as not to strain the bike any further). I found a laundry, popped the washing into the machine (my clothes really needed a proper wash so I put on my swimmimg costume, my long sleeve cycling shirt that I hardly wear and shoes without socks so I could wash everything else). There are many bicycle vendors in Lucca because the demand for rental bikes is huge with every visitor wanting to ride around the walls. It's a must do, like going to Pisa and posing for a picture like you're holding up the tower!
Within 20 metres of the laundry I found a bike shop that would service the bike. Awesome. I am so glad I took it in because the back wheel bearing was going, four spokes needed to be replaced, my one pedal cleat was breaking so I had the pedals replaced and the brakes needed replacement. Now it feels like a new bike.
So I have clean, dry, sweet smelling laundry and a repaired bike. Rest days are good.
For supper I went to Trattoria Da Leo, great food.
Primi Piatti Tortelli al Ragu di Carne. A local speciality, delicious, Tortellini with Bolognaise sauce and lots of Parmesan
Secondi Piatti Furaona al ginepro e aceto balsamico. Guinea fowl with junipers and balsamic vinegar. Superb. Along with half a bottle of wine, coffee and Grappa.
Now that's a satisfying day.... aaaaah did I say that? Sorry Ms V!
I really enjoy Lucca. It has incredible atmosphere and is quite unique.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Day 25 - Pontermoli to Fiumaretta (Thursday 20th September)
(92 kms)
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175565
The day started in good fashion. I know I changed my destination to Massa instead of Pietrasanta but in the morning when I went through the detailed planning for the day I realised that the reason I'd chosen to end at Pietrasanta is because there was an alternate route that followed the beachfront roads and so I could see the Mediterranean. I revised my plans and set off for my first point, Aulla. I followed the official Italian Francigena cycling trail. It was wonderful, high on the slope of the mountain, following the course of the Magra River, riding on good tracks through cool green forest. What a way to start the day.
In Aulla I checked the next section, 17kms across the mountain to Sarzanna. Based on my experience so far, sounds tough but a good ride.
Let me interject here with a lesson I have now learned on this trail. Never admit to a satisfying day because the Ms V Francigena takes out the big monkey wrench and tightens the nuts (in a manner of speaking - you get the gist). The first 8 kms was a challenging uphill ride to a mountain top village called Barleto. At the very top the guide book said "turn away from Barleto centre, there is a VF sign and a path, take the path and after 1100 metres turn left uphill towards the quarry". Off I go but the directions don't seem right, however I keep seeing VF signs (often just red and white stripe on trees or posts to let you know you're on the path). So I go on, at 1100 metres there is an upward sign but it is theVF walking path - no bike can go there - but also there's a fork to the left. So I continue merrily, another 3kms down through the valley, still seeing VF marks but no quarry. Eventually I run out of road, path, track, whatever. I backtrack and find someone to ask. He just shakes his head and says "Why would you be crazy enough to cycle across the mountain when there is a perfectly good road going round it?" I explain about following the VF trail and he indicates that I need to go back across the valley and up to Barleto and on another path from there. Gritting my teeth I backtrack all through the valley and way up to the mountain top village. Here I discover that I should have gone 30 metres further uphill then taken another track that seems well marked. So off I go. At the right distance I find two roads fork to the left and no mark to say which one. So I try them both, after 3 kms on each (and back) still no turn to a quarry..... Not even a quarry. So back to the village and try one last time. Once again I end up in the bush and nothing matches where I am supposed to be. Now i've spent 3 hours not getting anywhere so I find a road that goes downwards and head back towards Aulla. The road I'm on intersects the main road to Sarzanna so gratefully I turn left. In 30 mins I'm in Sarzanna. No wonder the man giving me directions was bemused.
I'm irritated and tired so I stop for an ice cream and review the next section. It's back in the bush and across another mountain but I don't mind that because it branches off towards the sea and I can ride to Pietrasanta along the beach road instead of going through Massa. Grand plan, let's go. Just outside of town the way is up a steep grass track that I cannot ride. Now irritation turns to frustration and I say "no more for today"!
I look at my map of North Italy and I see that I can go to a town called Lerici then take a road along the beach front that leads to Pietrasanta.
Squeak. That's the sound of the nuts tightening. Never abandon Ms V!! I had the most beautiful ride for the next four hours. I rode along mountain roads, uphill and downhill, past wonderful beachfronts, little inlets, beaches, expensive hotels, restaurants, tourists everywhere strolling around enjoying themselves. It really was lovely but it took me absolutely nowhere closer to Pietrasanta. At 17:00 I found a man who speaks english and explained my plight. He directed me to the correct road, warning me that I had a steep uphill climb to Montemarcello before the road leads down to Boca di Magra where I can connect with the road to Pietrasanta. It was getting close to sunset by the time I made it down to Boca and found the right road, so I checked in at the local Albergo in Fiumaretta for the night. This is the first time I've not made my designated stopover but I don't regret it I thoroughly enjoyed the ride and the countryside. Very tired though after all the bundu bashing and then the mountain riding. Quick supper of a rather bland lasagne with prawns that I definitely could have cooked better and then to bed.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
Day 24 - Fornovo-di-Taro to Pontremoli (Wednesday 19th September) - UPDATED
(64kms)
1533 kms from Canterbury
541kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175430
First let me tell you about my stay at the Giardino del Gusto (The Garden of Pleasure).
Pauli and his wife Erica are a friendly, welcoming couple. I discovered that they were not in the kitchen making supper just for me, they run a busy restaurant at night. Erica in particular really took me to her heart and went out of her way to make my stay special. This morning for breakfast I saw that they ate a fairly standard fare of coffee and bread with Nutella. For my breakfast, Erica brought me the exactly the same, then she added in a slice of chocolate brownie tart and a slice of really delicious cherry pie. Then I think the Italian mama in her came out and she offered me eggs as well. Erica fried me a fresh farm egg in fresh farm butter and then added in several slices of melon. Clearly I need mothering and being fed well for my day. I thoroughly enjoyed staying there. See the picture below of Erica and me just before I left today. Grazie Mille Erica.
So about today's ride. It was a day of ups and downs. In the Appenines for real and they demanded respect today. The guide book made it clear that this was not a day for trying to follow the off-road trail with a bicycle as there are steep slopes, rivers to ford and crags to climb. Gratefully I accepted the offer of an alternate route - basically stay on the tar all the way. I like it when it's their suggestion then I do not feel guilty. I've discovered though, that when it comes to mountain passes it's the safest to stay on the road. The first section says 17 kilometres to Cassio. Nice and easy I think to myself, for the start of the day with a full tummy. But I was forgetting Ms V Francigena who hates it when I get too comfortable. By the time I reached Cassio I had cycled uphill all the way changing altitude from 148 metres at the start to 910 metres just before Cassio. But it was a good uphill ride, never too steep but plenty to get the heart pumping and the legs warm. A downhill took me into Cassio at 756 metres where I stopped for a drink and a refill of waterbottles. Onward and upward to Berceto reaching 960 metres before descending to 850 metres in Berceto. The following picture is for the Grand Prix fans out there;
At this altitude it's cold, an icy wind is blowing, thick clouds are threatening rain and a mist is starting to roll down the mountain, sound familiar? Too familiar for my liking. I stopped to pull on my fleecy top then headed for the Cisa Pass that I knew is the highest point on my ride. After 44kms since starting the day I arrive at the top of the Cisa Pass, 1041 metres altitude. Then despite the cold I enjoy a lovely gentle 30 km descent to Pontremoli on a beautiful road with very little traffic.
The cycling today was just fantastic, much better than the flat plains. I love the challenge of the uphills and the reward of the downhills. Life is just awesome and I am so grateful to have this incredible experience. I stopped in the main Piazza for a hot cup of coffee and met with and chatted to an American couple, Jesse and Joy, from near Palm Springs. Happy holiday!
I managed to locate a restaurant, Trattoria Norina, that was recommended in Sylvia Nillsen's blog from when she and four other crazy Durban ladies walked from Lausanne to Rome. So that's where I will be dining tonight. The convent where I am staying is very nice and it is close to town. How lucky am I?
All in all, I would say that was a very satisfying day. Tomorrow I will stop in Massa not Pietrasanta as originally planned. Then from there I'll be able to reach Lucca in the early afternoon. In time to get settled and plan to meet Keith at Pisa Airport on Saturday when flies in to cycle the last eight days with me to Rome. I am so looking forward to sharing some of these experiences with him.
UPDATE
Having done all the good stuff, shower, shave, shampoo etc I head out for a pint and a good dinner. I choose a popular pub, have a dark Belgian ale and off to Trattoria Norina. Since Sylvia wrote the blog, Norina has retired but her daughter runs the establishment. As I walk in I am greeted like an old friend by three other pilgrims, one, a Frenchman, whom I met and chatted to at the Tourist office and the other two, Italians, who checked into the convent at the same time as me. The Frenchman spoke a little English and was used as a part time translator but mostly the conversation was multi-lingual with most of us understanding some of what was being said. What an enjoyable evening, we shared a meal, some wine, coffee and good Grappa. I had the best meal so far. I started with Testaroli, which sounds a lot worse than it is. It's a regional speciality where they make a crepe from a special flour mix and (I think) let it ferment a bit. Then they cover it in a delicious pesto. It really is a superb dish. I followed that with Osso Bucco, one of my favourite dishes. Unknown to me the two Italians had negotiated an all in price of 15 Euros for the entire meal. So not only was it good but it was cheap.
What a satisfying end to a satisfying day.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
1533 kms from Canterbury
541kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175430
First let me tell you about my stay at the Giardino del Gusto (The Garden of Pleasure).
Pauli and his wife Erica are a friendly, welcoming couple. I discovered that they were not in the kitchen making supper just for me, they run a busy restaurant at night. Erica in particular really took me to her heart and went out of her way to make my stay special. This morning for breakfast I saw that they ate a fairly standard fare of coffee and bread with Nutella. For my breakfast, Erica brought me the exactly the same, then she added in a slice of chocolate brownie tart and a slice of really delicious cherry pie. Then I think the Italian mama in her came out and she offered me eggs as well. Erica fried me a fresh farm egg in fresh farm butter and then added in several slices of melon. Clearly I need mothering and being fed well for my day. I thoroughly enjoyed staying there. See the picture below of Erica and me just before I left today. Grazie Mille Erica.
So about today's ride. It was a day of ups and downs. In the Appenines for real and they demanded respect today. The guide book made it clear that this was not a day for trying to follow the off-road trail with a bicycle as there are steep slopes, rivers to ford and crags to climb. Gratefully I accepted the offer of an alternate route - basically stay on the tar all the way. I like it when it's their suggestion then I do not feel guilty. I've discovered though, that when it comes to mountain passes it's the safest to stay on the road. The first section says 17 kilometres to Cassio. Nice and easy I think to myself, for the start of the day with a full tummy. But I was forgetting Ms V Francigena who hates it when I get too comfortable. By the time I reached Cassio I had cycled uphill all the way changing altitude from 148 metres at the start to 910 metres just before Cassio. But it was a good uphill ride, never too steep but plenty to get the heart pumping and the legs warm. A downhill took me into Cassio at 756 metres where I stopped for a drink and a refill of waterbottles. Onward and upward to Berceto reaching 960 metres before descending to 850 metres in Berceto. The following picture is for the Grand Prix fans out there;
At this altitude it's cold, an icy wind is blowing, thick clouds are threatening rain and a mist is starting to roll down the mountain, sound familiar? Too familiar for my liking. I stopped to pull on my fleecy top then headed for the Cisa Pass that I knew is the highest point on my ride. After 44kms since starting the day I arrive at the top of the Cisa Pass, 1041 metres altitude. Then despite the cold I enjoy a lovely gentle 30 km descent to Pontremoli on a beautiful road with very little traffic.
The cycling today was just fantastic, much better than the flat plains. I love the challenge of the uphills and the reward of the downhills. Life is just awesome and I am so grateful to have this incredible experience. I stopped in the main Piazza for a hot cup of coffee and met with and chatted to an American couple, Jesse and Joy, from near Palm Springs. Happy holiday!
I managed to locate a restaurant, Trattoria Norina, that was recommended in Sylvia Nillsen's blog from when she and four other crazy Durban ladies walked from Lausanne to Rome. So that's where I will be dining tonight. The convent where I am staying is very nice and it is close to town. How lucky am I?
All in all, I would say that was a very satisfying day. Tomorrow I will stop in Massa not Pietrasanta as originally planned. Then from there I'll be able to reach Lucca in the early afternoon. In time to get settled and plan to meet Keith at Pisa Airport on Saturday when flies in to cycle the last eight days with me to Rome. I am so looking forward to sharing some of these experiences with him.
UPDATE
Having done all the good stuff, shower, shave, shampoo etc I head out for a pint and a good dinner. I choose a popular pub, have a dark Belgian ale and off to Trattoria Norina. Since Sylvia wrote the blog, Norina has retired but her daughter runs the establishment. As I walk in I am greeted like an old friend by three other pilgrims, one, a Frenchman, whom I met and chatted to at the Tourist office and the other two, Italians, who checked into the convent at the same time as me. The Frenchman spoke a little English and was used as a part time translator but mostly the conversation was multi-lingual with most of us understanding some of what was being said. What an enjoyable evening, we shared a meal, some wine, coffee and good Grappa. I had the best meal so far. I started with Testaroli, which sounds a lot worse than it is. It's a regional speciality where they make a crepe from a special flour mix and (I think) let it ferment a bit. Then they cover it in a delicious pesto. It really is a superb dish. I followed that with Osso Bucco, one of my favourite dishes. Unknown to me the two Italians had negotiated an all in price of 15 Euros for the entire meal. So not only was it good but it was cheap.
What a satisfying end to a satisfying day.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Donations - Thank you
Thank you very much to everyone who has donated funds for FTH:K through support for my ride. We have managed to raise R15 000.00 so far through various donors and pledges.
I would like to acknowledge the following donors with thanks for their very generous contributions.
- The Ackerman Foundation R5000.00
- Kerry McElwee R1000.00
- Derek Rushmere R500.00
- Colleen Sutherland R500.00
- Nick Schild R500.00
- The Bergvliet Lions Club R500.00
Monthly Pledges
Colin Scholtz R50.00 per month for 2 years
And a special thanks to all of you who entered the Pick nPay Fresh FM competition.
Please make sure that Ana of FTH:K knows of your pledge or donation so that I can add my thanks here on this blog.
Keep those donations coming and do encourage your friends to do the same
Follow me on:
Facebook - Elred Lawrence
Twitter - @ElredL
This blog - www.cyclingtorome.blogspot.com
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here:
http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Day 23 - Piacenza to Fornovo-di-Taro (Tuesday 18th September)
(67 kms)
1471 kms from Canterbury
603 kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175153
Having said fond farewells to Jochen and Anke, I sit down to plan the day's ride. The first section is described as difficult to navigate with several river crossings to negotiate.
Hmmm not with my bike, so I rode the tar to Fidenza. A few kilometres out of Fidenza the vegetation and geography changes quite rapidly. The rice paddies and corn fields are a thing of the past. Now I'm cycling into the foothills of the Appenines. Back to forests and vineyards. Gone is the brown and in comes the lovely green. Also here comes steep uphills on gravelly farm tracks and thick grass where bikes have to be pushed. So that pretty much filled my time until I arrived in Fornovo and started the usual hunt for a place to stay. The Tourist office was closed, nobody answered my call at the local religios hostel so I went in search of a hotel.
On my way I saw a small hand painted sign saying B&B just up the road. I headed that way and now I'm being hosted in a lovely farmhouse by a couple who have signed up for what is being promoted as AgriTourism, farmers who let rooms and provide meals for tourists. I have a great room, the farmer and his wife are busy in the kitchen making me supper. This is going to be a memorable experience. What a great ending to a fairly strenuous day.
Here are pictures of Il Giardino del Gusto - the phone number is on the sign - call them if you're looking for a very special place to stay near Fornavo-di-Taro
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
1471 kms from Canterbury
603 kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175153
Having said fond farewells to Jochen and Anke, I sit down to plan the day's ride. The first section is described as difficult to navigate with several river crossings to negotiate.
Hmmm not with my bike, so I rode the tar to Fidenza. A few kilometres out of Fidenza the vegetation and geography changes quite rapidly. The rice paddies and corn fields are a thing of the past. Now I'm cycling into the foothills of the Appenines. Back to forests and vineyards. Gone is the brown and in comes the lovely green. Also here comes steep uphills on gravelly farm tracks and thick grass where bikes have to be pushed. So that pretty much filled my time until I arrived in Fornovo and started the usual hunt for a place to stay. The Tourist office was closed, nobody answered my call at the local religios hostel so I went in search of a hotel.
On my way I saw a small hand painted sign saying B&B just up the road. I headed that way and now I'm being hosted in a lovely farmhouse by a couple who have signed up for what is being promoted as AgriTourism, farmers who let rooms and provide meals for tourists. I have a great room, the farmer and his wife are busy in the kitchen making me supper. This is going to be a memorable experience. What a great ending to a fairly strenuous day.
Here are pictures of Il Giardino del Gusto - the phone number is on the sign - call them if you're looking for a very special place to stay near Fornavo-di-Taro
Here's the Garmin record for the road from the centre of Fornovo-di-Taro to the B&B:
http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175300
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Day 22 - Pavia to Piacenza (Monday 17th September)
Distance from Canterbury 1383 kms Distance to Rome 691
(84 kms)
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233174972
So I've had uphill days and downhill days and flat days, this one will have to be called the Pilgrim Day. Overall the landscape followed the pattern of the previous two days. Flat, cycling through rice paddies, slowly making way for corn fields. I was hardly out of Pavia when I came upon Frank, a very genial Belgian man, about my age, walking the Way from Bruges, where he lives, to Rome. We chatted for 25 minutes as we exchanged experiences and compared his 54 days walking to Pavia to my 22 days cycling. About an hour later I met a French couple walking from their home in Paris to Rome, we had a quick chat and wished each other "Bon Camino" and off I went. In Santa-Christina I met another Belgian gent, we didn't say much, he said he was tired and went off to find some lunch. So on I went.
My intention, when I planned this trip, was to catch the ferry across the Po River. It's a unique experience offered specifically for pilgrims. I had the manager of the hostel in Pavia call and agree a time that the ferry would be in Oria-Litta. It was agreed that 14:00 was the time as another pilgrim had booked it for then. I made good time and was at the ferry wharf at 13:10. There I met Renata, a Swiss lady also about my age, walking from Aosta to Rome. We waited in the shade, dozing off quietly until the buzz of an approaching motorboat alerted us that the ferry was about to arrive. Danilo is the ferryman, a jovial gent and very friendly, who runs a very interesting hostel for pilgrims on the other side. He has been taking pilgrims across the river (here I should say not just across but upstream for about 1.5 kms) for eight years. If you catch his ferry you're obliged to go fill in his register and chat for a while but it's a pleasureable interlude for the day. In Sigeric The Serious' day a ferry was the only way to get across this very wide river so it's a must-do pilgrim experience.
After the nice boat ride, a chat and a top up of the water bottles with ice-cold water it was time to say goodbye to Danilo and Renata and crack the last 20 kms to Piacenza. In Piacenza the kind lady at the tourist office put in a huge effort to find me a place to stay. She phoned more than 20 establishments but they were all full. Eventually she suggests I ride to the pilgrim hostel and see if they have space. She can't phone them, you have to go there. So where is this hostel? Well it's in Piacenza just like Bellville is in Cape Town. So off I go with a map and an information pamphlet for the hostel at hand. Some 10 kms later I find I'm heading for Parma and still no hostel. A lady at a petrol station explains that the road network has changed and I need to go back 3 kms and turn into Montale (Piacenza's Bellville). Now it's getting late, I still have no place to stay and the only other option is a commercial hostel about the same distance across the opposite side of town so I'm becoming anxious...... no not anxious, decidedly grumpy is closer to the truth.
Eventually I find the hostel, only because the pamphlet has a picture of it. A nondescript building with a grey door. The street number is well hidden from view and the little carving of a pilgrim on the outside wall is almost invisible. Grrr grumpier! I politely ring the doorbell, no response, I ring a little longer and look up, there is an open window so somone must be about. No response. Buzz buzz buzz No response.
BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ! A head pops out the upper window and says something in German. I say "I'm a tired and hungry pilgrim looking for a place to sleep" The head says "Do you speak English?" I think "WTF do you think I just spoke? Greek?" But I say (nicely) "Why, as it happens, yes I do" Head says he's coming down. Head and the manager of the place arrive at the door simultaneously. Manager explains that in order to gain access to this fine establishment whose sole existence is to assist and give comfort to weary pilgrims, the said weary pilgrim must go back 3 kms to the church where the padre ensures that you are indeed a pilgrim as you claim and relieves you of 10 Euros in exchange for a key so ringing the bell is of no use. In my finest, politest, softest, well-spoken gentle manner, I ask him where on this lovely little glossy pamphlet does it express, in any of the earth's thousand variants of written communication, that you have to pick up a !#%!&*!$*#?! damn key 3 kms ago? There is a pause in conversation as he studies the pamphlet, turning it over several times before admitting that that little tidbit of information has not been included in the lovely glossy little useless piece of communication (except for the picture .... that was useful).
So in fine managerial style he flips open his phone, calls the padre and gets permission for me to stay. After that we're all good friends. He even tells me I can use the washing machine and recommends a restaurant across the road for supper. Nice guy, tough job!
In the meantime, Head introduces himself as Jochen Sturm and his wife Anke who are pilgrims staying in the hostel as well. A lovely couple, after supper, at the restaurant I joined them at their table and we had wine and coffee and a couple of hours conversation. I really enjoyed meeting them. They spend a couple of weeks every year walking a section of the Way through Italy. So as you see it was a pilgrim day.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here:
http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
(84 kms)
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233174972
So I've had uphill days and downhill days and flat days, this one will have to be called the Pilgrim Day. Overall the landscape followed the pattern of the previous two days. Flat, cycling through rice paddies, slowly making way for corn fields. I was hardly out of Pavia when I came upon Frank, a very genial Belgian man, about my age, walking the Way from Bruges, where he lives, to Rome. We chatted for 25 minutes as we exchanged experiences and compared his 54 days walking to Pavia to my 22 days cycling. About an hour later I met a French couple walking from their home in Paris to Rome, we had a quick chat and wished each other "Bon Camino" and off I went. In Santa-Christina I met another Belgian gent, we didn't say much, he said he was tired and went off to find some lunch. So on I went.
My intention, when I planned this trip, was to catch the ferry across the Po River. It's a unique experience offered specifically for pilgrims. I had the manager of the hostel in Pavia call and agree a time that the ferry would be in Oria-Litta. It was agreed that 14:00 was the time as another pilgrim had booked it for then. I made good time and was at the ferry wharf at 13:10. There I met Renata, a Swiss lady also about my age, walking from Aosta to Rome. We waited in the shade, dozing off quietly until the buzz of an approaching motorboat alerted us that the ferry was about to arrive. Danilo is the ferryman, a jovial gent and very friendly, who runs a very interesting hostel for pilgrims on the other side. He has been taking pilgrims across the river (here I should say not just across but upstream for about 1.5 kms) for eight years. If you catch his ferry you're obliged to go fill in his register and chat for a while but it's a pleasureable interlude for the day. In Sigeric The Serious' day a ferry was the only way to get across this very wide river so it's a must-do pilgrim experience.
After the nice boat ride, a chat and a top up of the water bottles with ice-cold water it was time to say goodbye to Danilo and Renata and crack the last 20 kms to Piacenza. In Piacenza the kind lady at the tourist office put in a huge effort to find me a place to stay. She phoned more than 20 establishments but they were all full. Eventually she suggests I ride to the pilgrim hostel and see if they have space. She can't phone them, you have to go there. So where is this hostel? Well it's in Piacenza just like Bellville is in Cape Town. So off I go with a map and an information pamphlet for the hostel at hand. Some 10 kms later I find I'm heading for Parma and still no hostel. A lady at a petrol station explains that the road network has changed and I need to go back 3 kms and turn into Montale (Piacenza's Bellville). Now it's getting late, I still have no place to stay and the only other option is a commercial hostel about the same distance across the opposite side of town so I'm becoming anxious...... no not anxious, decidedly grumpy is closer to the truth.
Eventually I find the hostel, only because the pamphlet has a picture of it. A nondescript building with a grey door. The street number is well hidden from view and the little carving of a pilgrim on the outside wall is almost invisible. Grrr grumpier! I politely ring the doorbell, no response, I ring a little longer and look up, there is an open window so somone must be about. No response. Buzz buzz buzz No response.
BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ! A head pops out the upper window and says something in German. I say "I'm a tired and hungry pilgrim looking for a place to sleep" The head says "Do you speak English?" I think "WTF do you think I just spoke? Greek?" But I say (nicely) "Why, as it happens, yes I do" Head says he's coming down. Head and the manager of the place arrive at the door simultaneously. Manager explains that in order to gain access to this fine establishment whose sole existence is to assist and give comfort to weary pilgrims, the said weary pilgrim must go back 3 kms to the church where the padre ensures that you are indeed a pilgrim as you claim and relieves you of 10 Euros in exchange for a key so ringing the bell is of no use. In my finest, politest, softest, well-spoken gentle manner, I ask him where on this lovely little glossy pamphlet does it express, in any of the earth's thousand variants of written communication, that you have to pick up a !#%!&*!$*#?! damn key 3 kms ago? There is a pause in conversation as he studies the pamphlet, turning it over several times before admitting that that little tidbit of information has not been included in the lovely glossy little useless piece of communication (except for the picture .... that was useful).
So in fine managerial style he flips open his phone, calls the padre and gets permission for me to stay. After that we're all good friends. He even tells me I can use the washing machine and recommends a restaurant across the road for supper. Nice guy, tough job!
In the meantime, Head introduces himself as Jochen Sturm and his wife Anke who are pilgrims staying in the hostel as well. A lovely couple, after supper, at the restaurant I joined them at their table and we had wine and coffee and a couple of hours conversation. I really enjoyed meeting them. They spend a couple of weeks every year walking a section of the Way through Italy. So as you see it was a pilgrim day.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here:
http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Sunday, September 16, 2012
Day 21 Sunday 16th September Vercelli to Pavia
(83 kms)
1317 kms from Canterbury 757 kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233174972
I've had uphill days and downhill days. I can safely say this was a flat day. Most of the ride was along grassy tracks and along paths next to irrigation canals between kilometres of rice paddies. For rice to grow well, it is essential that the paddy is completely level and the water is the same height throughout. That will tell you how flat the ride was today. It takes its toll on the bum 'cos there are no nice downhills to stand up and rest.
Just like yesterday there was nothing special to see or even photograph. I was interested in the rice, though, it must be close to harvesting time as the plants are brown and the rice seed itself is very hard with a brown husk.
It was a pleasure to reach Pavia about 15:00 and to find that the Tourist Office was open. They showed me the way to the hostel where I am staying tonight. What a relief not to ride all over town for hours trying to find the place. Pavia is a city that has been in existence since 576 (or earlier - I think two Romans had a fight over it and besieged it about that time). So the old part of the city has great character. All of the townspeople were walking the cobbled streets, most of them eating ice-cream and just enjoying a lovely Autumn Sunday afternoon. I stopped in the Piazza della Vittoria for a pint or two then had a leisurely supper.
The hostel has a computer and an Internet connection so for once I can update the blog myself and Keith can have a night off!
Here are some pics of Pavia, the river, the old bridge and the Piazza della Vittoria
1317 kms from Canterbury 757 kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233174972
I've had uphill days and downhill days. I can safely say this was a flat day. Most of the ride was along grassy tracks and along paths next to irrigation canals between kilometres of rice paddies. For rice to grow well, it is essential that the paddy is completely level and the water is the same height throughout. That will tell you how flat the ride was today. It takes its toll on the bum 'cos there are no nice downhills to stand up and rest.
Just like yesterday there was nothing special to see or even photograph. I was interested in the rice, though, it must be close to harvesting time as the plants are brown and the rice seed itself is very hard with a brown husk.
It was a pleasure to reach Pavia about 15:00 and to find that the Tourist Office was open. They showed me the way to the hostel where I am staying tonight. What a relief not to ride all over town for hours trying to find the place. Pavia is a city that has been in existence since 576 (or earlier - I think two Romans had a fight over it and besieged it about that time). So the old part of the city has great character. All of the townspeople were walking the cobbled streets, most of them eating ice-cream and just enjoying a lovely Autumn Sunday afternoon. I stopped in the Piazza della Vittoria for a pint or two then had a leisurely supper.
The hostel has a computer and an Internet connection so for once I can update the blog myself and Keith can have a night off!
Day 20 - Pont St Martin to Vercelli (Saturday 15 September)
(69 kms)
Distance from Canterbury: 1236 kms Distance to Rome: 838 kms
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233174612
A comfortable day but not spectacular in any way. I have now moved out of the valleys and mountains onto flat plains. Not a lot to see, some farmland, mostly corn, and a fair amount of industry. I did stop at a lake in Viverone for a drink and a rest. The area is pretty and pleasant and a fun place for people who like boating and fishing.
A big, big thank you to @PnPFreshFm - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (be sure to reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Saturday, September 15, 2012
Day 19 - Grand Col St Bernard to Pont St Martin (Friday 14th September)
(92kms)
Distance from Canterbury: 1148 kms Distance to Rome: 926 kms
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233174495
(No map seems to have been captured but the ride details are there)
It was pretty much a downhill day. What a change. I left the Col this morning in freezing conditions. Sunny but the night had been very cold and there was ice on the road with a freezing wind blowing. I was given good advice about how to tackle the ride down to Aosta by a lovely Swiss couple I met. I also enjoyed chatting to a Belgian man who has been walking the VF in stages during his annual leave. So nice to have spent time over a meal with them all. As you will have noticed I'm very bad at gettimg people's names so I do hope that when these folk read this, they email me on elred.lawrence@gmail.com (or anyone else can email me there, for that matter). I also shared dinner and breakfast with Tom and Dana, whose details I did get and I will be emailing them. It is a wonderful part of this sort of journey to meet and spend time with such interesting, kind and heart-warming people.
Back to the day's ride. Taking the good advice, I dressed as warmly as I could. Buff over head under helmet, two cycling shirts and a warm fleecy top. Not much I could do with cycling shorts and gloves. Off I set down the road. Within one kilometre I stopped to put on my cape as well, the wind was so icy cold. Within 500 metres, while going downhill at about 20 kms per hour (very slowly actually on that gradient), the wind whips my cape completely over my head and suddenly I can see nothing but green. In panic I grab my brakes and stop so suddenly that I had no time to get my feet loose from the pedal. Crash, bang, fall #4. This could have been dangerous if I fell into the road but fortunately it was into the flower pots of a little cottage so not much damage was inflicted to me or the pots. One good thing though, a St Bernard dog came to bark at me and see me off the property so I'm glad I saw one. Anyway after that, I tied my cape around my waist and all was well. Like the uphill, it's a 40 km downhill all the way into Aosta so apart from using up my brake pads it was a great ride.
In Aosta I wandered about and did some shopping, playing tourist as it was nice and warm and sunny. Back down to about 540 metres altitude.
Then I pushed on trying to make up for the lost day. The ride was lovely in the valley along the banks of the river and sometimes in the foothils of the mountain. Saw an amazing fort, the Forte di Bard just before arriving at Pont St Martin.
It is now a cultural centre but what an incredible defense fortress it must have been in its day. So here I am, no worse for wear having had a gentle day's ride.
A big, big thank you to @PnPFreshFm - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by depositing R20 or more into FTH:K's account, reference Elred and your name and contact number and stand the chance to win! See bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
You can also enter via SMS: To give R20: SMS FTHK to 40447*
*WAPSA Legal Code of Conduct:
45825@R1.50/SMS | 38387@R10/SMS | 40447@R20/SMS
42116@R30/SMS | Errors billed. T&C’s apply.
SMS donations are subject to network and admin deductions.
Day 18 - An unexpected rest day (Thursday 13 th September)
I woke up and looked out of the window. The storm had increased in the night and there is snow and ice everywhere. The roads are iced over, the fog is low, the wind is blowing a gale and the few people venturing out are dressed in serious winter clothing.
People at breakfast tell me the weather forecast is that it will clear up today and be fine tomorrow. I venture out to take some pictures but soon scurry back inside, the wind chill factor has the temperature well below freezing. The question is, do I continue or wait out the weather. It's a waste of a days ride if the weather does not really clear and then tomorrow I ride on anyway. So I take another walk outside and decide to stay a day here and hope the weather clears. It's probably a beautiful day in Aosta down in the valley.
As my original intention was to stay in the Hospice anyway, I cross an icy road and secure a room there. It is cheaper than the hotel and thats good! As I sit here in the Hospice room I can see some blue sky and the ice on the roads is clearing although a strong wind is blowing still. I think I made the right decision. It is very cold out there.
So having written that sentence I went outside to check the weather and take the pics below. The ice is melting, in fact the wind is blowing great chunks of it off the roofs. The sun is trying to shine but the wind keeps blowing great rolling mist in the way. As long as it is not actually snowing or sleeting tomorrow then I'll be on my way.
A big, big thank you to @PnPFreshFm - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by depositing R20 or more into FTH:K's account, reference Elred and your name and contact number and stand the chance to win! See bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Day 17 - Martigny to the Grand Col St Bernard (Wednesday 12th September)
(43.3 kms)
Distance from Canterbury: 1059 Distance to Rome: 1015
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233174342
I had planned it as a short day in terms of kilometres because I knew it would be a hard day's climbing. I could never have imagined what was in store for me..... read on....
Stage 1: Martigny to Orsieres 20.2 kilometres
Stage ascent: 687 metres
Starting altitude: 475 metres
Sounds innocuous.
I left in pouring rain and a cold wind but the trusty bright yellow\green fluorescent cape is keeping me warm and dryish and I have packed my luggage as well as possible to keep the contents dry. Thank goodness I learnt on the Camino to pack everything in plastic bags inside the pannier bags. This simple action keeps stuff a lot drier than if it were just in the panniers alone.
Having studied the guide book carefully on the topic of today's ride I decide that as a safety precaution I need to follow the tar road all the way. The alternative in this weather seems more dangerous and complicated than the busy road. Good decision!
Notwithstanding the rain and wind, I make good time to Orsieres, averaging 15 kilometres an hour and I'm happy with my progress. It's uphill all the way but a similar gradient to the last few days so all is well in Elred-land. The rain and wind is a nuisance but no more than that.
Stage 2: Orsieres to Grand Col St Bernard.
25.2 kilometres
Stage ascent: 1787metres. About one and three-quarters the height of Table Mountain.
I pass the halfway mark of my ride just three kilometres outside of Orsieres. 1037 kilometres from Canterbury and 1037 kilometres to go to Rome.
It's getting distinctly colder, the wind speed is increasing and the gradient is significantly steeper than before. The ride becomes a challenge. It takes me almost as long to do the next five kilometres as it did the first twenty. Now I'm getting colder, my fingers and toes are numb. If I stop for water I can hardly squeeze the bottle my fingers are so cold. I am so grateful for the cape, it's keeping the worst of the wet and cold from my torso and legs and certainly helping me to maintain a reasonable body temperature. After six or so kilometres I ride through a village called Liddes where I stop in a hotel, stumble in, dripping with water and ask for a hot drink. They provide me with tea, I have two cups, hot and black and I can feel myself beginning to thaw out. Best R48.00 I ever spent on tea! The owners and customers think I'm crazy when I tell them I'm on my way to the Col. Someone says he heard it is snowing on the high peaks. Undaunted, I set off, much warmer. I can even feel my toes again.
The gradient gets steeper and steeper, I get slower and slower, the weather gets worse and worse and I seriously battle my way through the next ten kilometres. It seems to take forever and I am stopping frequently for water or a moments rest. Then there is about a five kilometre section that is a semi tunnel, a roof but open on the side. I make better progress as I am sheltered from the wind and rain but the road remains stubbornly upward. At no point in the entire 43km day is there ever a downhill. In fact, perversely, I was glad of that 'cos a downhill simply means a steeper uphill. If I had the strength I would have stopped to take a picture of a huge dam high in the mountains. In SA we're used to dams that spread out. This one was very, very deep with the dam wall going far down into the valley. Hours and kilometres pass and at last I reach the tunnel that goes directly through the mountain to Aosta in Italy, but that is not my route. I now have to turn from the shelter and do the final six kilometres to the Col. I stop for water, chocolate and a few Haribo jelly bears. As I leave the shelter it looks not bad. Rain seems to have stopped. Gradient is again significantly steeper though and it's very tiring. Then I ride into the clouds, it's no longer just rain but thick fog and I see sleet as tiny icicle particles alight on my cape. From now on it's just difficult. Stopping every 60 or 70 metres for a rest. The wind is blowing a gale, fortunately at my back, but it is freezing cold and the sleet is serious, fairly large flakes of ice. Then the sleet becomes bigger and flakier, suddenly I'm in a snowstorm. As I ride I see the ice is collecting on the grass covering it in white. Stop, breathe, tell myself that 5 kilometres is from Muizenberg to the BP in Tokai. It's not far. I can no longer feel my hands on the handlebars nor my feet in my shoes. Now I'm stopping every 30 metres. The gradient is getting steeper, the wind and ice are taking their toll as, I realised, so would the altitude as I am now over 2200 metres. Stop go stop go stop go, endlessly up, up, up. The fog thickens, for a while I cycle directly into the ice and wind. I can hardly breathe. Stop, go stop, go. Look at the road ahead, upward upward upward. After ages I see a sign that says four kilometres to go. Ok, that's Muizenberg to home. You can do this. Stop go stop go. Cars and trucks pass revving their engines to cope with the hill. Stop go stop go. You can do this. Two kilometres to go. Ok that's not far but it is steeper and steeper and colder and colder and I get slower and slower. Now I'm watching the distance on my Garmin, every 100 metres is celebrated. I'm trying to sing but my lips are so cold they won't form the words. And so it goes on, just when I think the road must surely flatten I hear a car approaching from above me.
Eventually I'm convinced I have gone the distance. I stop and confirm on the Garmin that I must be close. The fog is thick and all I can see is the road going uphill.
I set off and within 30 metres I see the Hospice of St Bernard. The fog was so thick I could not see huge buildings just 50 metres away. I'm there. But no rejoicing, I am so cold. I see a hotel with an open restaurant on the right and I park my bike and head inside. I'm panting. I can hardly speak and gasp out please I need a hot drink. My fingers are so numb I cannot use them at all, not to take off the cape or gloves. When the waitress brings me tea I have to ask her to tear the teabag packet open and put the teabag into the water. Then the pain strikes. I've read about it and it is excruciating, the pain as the blood starts to flow into frozen fingers and toes. For 10 mins I just sit there unable even to sip my tea until at last the worst is over. As I drink my tea, my body's survival mechanism kicks in and I find I'm shivering uncontrollably. It's all I can do to ask for a room and drag my bike inside, unpack it and head for a shower. I did manage a picture of the ice encrusting my luggage. Hope it comes out. (I have just checked those pics, my hands were shaking so much that the images were completely blurred). After 15 minutes in a hot shower I put two spare blankets on the bed, climbed in, curled into a foetal position and did not move for an hour until I felt warm again.
Then the chores start, wash clothes, hang last nights damp stuff out to dry, look at and make a plan with things that did get wet, put the Garmin onto charge. Generally do housework.
Some pics taken after I warmed up last night and some taken today:
So that was an experience, time will tell just how I categorise it. 43.3 kms non stop uphill with steep gradients and reaching 2478 metres in altitude. Five and a half hours riding. Seven and a half hours on the road. And... I am proud to say I may have stopped a lot but I cycled all the way... Not once did I walk!!
Oh, it was not really heartening when, on the last kilometre I started seeing faded painted names on the road from a Tour de France long gone.. Lance and Sastre and others I recognise but don't remember right now. That means this was a tough finish for them... what about me?
Until the end I did not realise just how cold I was while riding in those freezing conditions. The point being, though, there is really no return, the best option on the last six kilometres was simply to keep going.
It's amazing how well my body coped though. By supper time I was ready for a beer and a glass of wine. The supper, after a day like that, was hot and just right.. Vegetable soup, lamb with veg and lots of roast potatoes, crepe with the most delicious apricot sorbet and a large cup of coffee.
That was a day, that was! I do understand why the Hospice became such a refuge for travellers of old and why it became so necessary to have the St Bernard dogs to identify and rescue lost travellers in the freezing weather.
A big, big thank you to @PnPFreshFm - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by depositing R20 or more into FTH:K's account, reference Elred and your name and contact number and stand the chance to win! See bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Friday, September 14, 2012
Day 16 - Lausanne to Martigny (Tuesday 11th September)
(76 kms)
Distance from Canterbury: 1014e distance to Rome: 1060
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233174179
Up early on a beautiful day to pack up and head for Martigny. It's a long day but most of the track is along the waters edge from Lausanne, through Vevey and Montreux to Villeneuve before turning and riding up the Rhone valley alongside the river.
Just 1 km into the ride my back wheel goes flat. Puncture #4. Officially not a puncture, the valve broke, but the same effect, unpack everything, remove and replace the tube then repack and off you go.
My first decision was just to ride and not follow the VF route too slavishly. Good adecision. I took the Swiss bicycle network route to Montreux. It was just an incredible ride. Instead of following the waterside, it took me high into the countryside, in the mountains. I rode through hectares of the most beautiful terraced vineyards. All of the walls and terracing was completed by monks in the 18 th century and today it is a thriving wine area. Lots of small villages, great places to walk and stop in interesting restaurants or stay in small hotels. An amazing ride, but upward, ever upward. Still I would not have changed it for anything.
Montreux is interesting. They have a Food Museum called The Alimentarium, sorry but I could not stop to explore. Just in front of it is a statue to Charlie Chaplin who spent his last years there escaping from the McCarthy era politics in America.
Then I got back on the VF route and rode through countryside via Villeneuve to Martigny. Much of the route is beside a swiftly flowing Rhone river with many tributaries flowing into it.
There is a lot of industry in this valley. I passed the World Cycling Organisation building en route. There were so many cyclists of varying degrees of fitness and application. Then ahead of me I spied two well laden hikers so I stopped to chat. They are a French couple walking from Bescancon to Rome on the VF. It was exciting to meet other pilgrims and we made a great fuss taking pics and chatting in broken French and English about our experiences.
Once again, it's the small things that really make one's day. Ms VF had a final, fairly tough countryside experience for me before Martigny. As I was riding this I could see a storm brewing in the valley ahead and the first drops of rain were making themselves known.
Nevertheless I arrived in Martigny early enough to visit the Office du Tourism and get directons to the campsite.
A very satisfying day, I thought. But this is the VF. Never take her for granted. Booked in at the campsite with a thunderstorm brewing. Pitched tent and the stay broke completely, there is no way it can be fixed. I'll carry the tent back to SA and have words with the manufacturers. It is completely unusable. So to plan B. Look for accommodation in the monastries pilgrim hostels from now on. So back to the reception at the campsite with my tale of woe. They take pity on me and let me into the dormitory accommodation at no extra cost. A blessing in disguise as later in the evening the storm breaks. Heavy rain and lightening. Not a problem in the tent ordinarily but it was still going full blast in the morning and packing up under those circumstances would have been miserable to say the least. The Grand Col St Bernard looms and the guide book recommends an early start. By the sound of the storm I am grateful to be inside.
A big, big thank you to @PnPFreshFm - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by depositing R20 or more into FTH:K's account, reference Elred and your name and contact number and stand the chance to win! See bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)