Day 4 - Bruay to Bapaume

61kms 

Today I made a journey altering decision. No more farmers fields and rocky muddy grass filled tracks for me. I'm not a happy chappy when I'm battling and walking with my bike. I came here to ride dammit. So unless the guide book says local tarred roads I'm going to find my own way. I rationalised this by realising that if Sigeric the Serious had a bicycle, he too would have preferred the tar roads. Right?

So today in Arras, I bought a map of France and plotted my own route. I also saw the rain coming and remembered that my special rain jacket I bought for the ride is hanging warm and dry in my cupboard at home. So I bought a bright green/yellow flourescent cape which came in really handy as the last 2 hours were ridden in torrential rain. And I was so pleased not to be riding in a farmers field. It was hard enough going on the road. The man at the bicycle shop where I bought the cape told me that 2 other riders are just a few hours ahead of me also heading for Rome. I doubt I'll meet them but it's a comforting thought.

Thanks everybody for your kind wishes sent on Twitter, text, what's app and the blog. So great to know you're out there supporting me and of course donating to FTH:K. Did you know that the Lions Club of Bergvliet made a R500 donation. Thank you Rose and all of the club members, that's awesome.

Tomorrow is the first of my long days! Wish me wind at my back.... difficult as the prevailing wind so far has been South West and I'm travelling South East so it's always in my face :-) 

Day 3 - Wisques to Bruay-la-Buissiere

Supposedly 53 kms but with getting lost and retracing my steps..73 kms

But an awesome day. Body and legs and mind all in synch. No demons since the first night. Biggest issue is navigating out of the towns. This day is my kind of ride. Small back roads all tarred, gently rolling hills, sun shining but cool, easy going glorious to be in the French countryside. Stopping occasionally in small villages for an Orangina, a lightly fizzy, cold orange juice! Fantastic.

Lesson. Pay very very careful attention to the guide book. Miss one small item and it costs you in retracing the route

As I was leaving the Ferry in Calais I met George, an Englishman taking a week to ride around Northern France, just because he could. nice guy and we had a good chat. Imagine both of our surprise when passing through Therouanne, who should I see cycling towards me, shirtless as only an Englishman would be, but George. So we stopped and exchanged experiences. While I was struggling through the mud and aforementioned PS he had covered many miles west and south of Calais and was heading back home already. Nice to meet you George. Thanks for keeping an eye on the blog.

So it's a great ride into Bruay. Then I start to look for a campsite. None in the town but a policeman draws me a map to one in a nearby town called Divion. Happily, I cycle back the way I came up hills and thought the countryside to find the campsite. After 2 hours and 12 kms I realise he had his right and left mixed up. Retracing my steps I realise I have a severe hill climb and an unknown number of kms to the campsite and it's already 19:30. The sun is setting. So back I go all the way to Bruay to find a place to sleep. Thankfully a man in a bar drew me an accurate map and within 30 mins I was in the Cottage Hotel having the first of two ice child Leffe Blonde beers to quench my thirst. Beautiful bitter cold beer. Awesome.

Day 2 - Guines to Wisques

48km

By the time I finished packing the rain had stopped. Oatso Easy and 3 enerjellies for breakfast. No other solution but to cut the pages out of the guide book to put where I can read them while riding. Tough riding on the tracks and farmland. Narrow tracks, thick clay wet from the rain mixed with a liberal dose of pigshit (sorry sensitive viewers by there is really no other way to say it) and very thick grass, impossible to ride through. Stopped for a coffee in Tournehem, as I walked into the Brasserie I smelled an overwhelming pong of aforementioned PS. The lady owner took one sniff of my niff and made haste to find me a spot outside.

Notwithstanding the new arrangement with the guide pages I still got lost many times and had to back track. Really tough day, lots of stops for rest and a fair whack of walking.

But...... Arrived in Wisques, tired and hungry and cannot find the campsite. Reported to the local Monastry St Pauls and asked for accommodation and a meal. What a warm welcome, own room, hot shower, very good meal shared in total silence with the 12 monks who run this outstandingly beautiful monastery they even gave me a beer with my supper. And breakfast tomorrow morning. All for a donation should I wish to make one.

Tough day, great ending. Via Francigena 1 Elred 1

Day 1 - Canterbury to Guines

71 kms including the ferry crossing

Famous last words

Maeve: "It's only 25 kms, I'll make Dover in two hours max!".

I left the Cathedral at 09:15 on the toll of the clock and immediately got confused about the way to go. Maeve to the rescue. Started so well whizzing down country lanes and byways then I hit the tracks and fields. It's tough going. Cycling in recently cut wheat stubble, mud, long grass, stony paths. Average speed about 3kms per hour. After 2 hours I was in Woolage all of 3 miles from Canterbury fixing my first puncture. Maeve to the rescue she found me, gave me water and fruit and insisted she did not want to see me again until I finish. "Now you go boy!" I think were her words. Simisha you'll be pleased to hear that after slogging for another 2.5 hours through dense undergrowth I stopped in Guston, found a cosy spot by the road and had a nap! Little did I know that Dover was a mere 10 min downhill ride from there! On the ferry 5 hours after leaving Dover.

I fell my gat off

In Calais, the centre of the town, in front of evening revellers and a queue for the bus. Hit a curb while trying to navigate and went head over heels onto the concrete. Rolled like a pro (so that parachute training paid off at last).  I  only grazed a knee but severely damaged my pride!  Nuff said I'm fine.

Navigation Calais to Guines

Very very difficult. Cannot find my way while trying to ride with a guide book in my hand. Also it refers to street names but the French keep them secret - you have to be born in the city. The route was beautiful though, all along the canals. Then disaster! I realised my guide book had fallen from my pack where I was keeping it handy for quick reference. That's my route map for the next 12 days until I get to Besancon. A rapid turnaround ensued with much discussion with guardian angels about my behaviour if they helped me find the book.   About 3 kms back I found it in a gutter. "Never mind, guardian angels", I said, " I found it myself" :-)

With all the trials and tribulations, getting lost many times and backtracking I finally made it to Guines a the sun was setting around 20:00.

• Find campsite
• Check in
• Pitch tent
• Have very cool shower
• Wash laundry
• Eat Oatso easy and 3 enerjellies
• Fall asleep to the sound of rain falling on my washing hanging out to dry and shotgun blasts as the locals sort out their dinner
• Wake up in middle of night being attacked by the demons of the river I'm camped by. Big hairy things, spirit monsters really, biting my hands, feet, calfs, thighs, hamstring, they're clever, it feels just like cramp but I'm sure it's demons
• Wake up in the morning to the sound of rain falling on my washing I've hung out to dry and shotgun blasts as the locals sort out their breakfast.
• But hey...who said it would be a walk in the park?

To sum up day one....Via Francigena  10  Elred 2

But it was a great day

Pictures from the start

Some pictures of Elred from Monday, as he started his epic journey;

Ready to hit the road - finally!

A few final adjustments

Inside the cathedral

Official starting point

Fond farewells

Outside the cathedral

Off he goes!

Stopped by the first (and hopefully last) puncture, not two hours after leaving

Canterbury to Guines to Wisques to Bruay-la-Buissiere

Sorry for the lack of news. Buying a sim card in France is very difficult. Had to detour to St Omer this morning as it was the nearest big city that sells them. Finally have
communication!  My cell number is +33 674911517 so sms by all means.I will try to answer when i see them but phone is only on in the evening........after my shower
Oh technology! this link is so slow it's taken me over an hour to write this.
I am strong and having fun. Will try to find an internet cafe and will update each day. Keith will post pics of me leaving the cathedral and fixing my first puncture just 3 miles from Canterbury. I'm on schedule in Bruay tonight. Thanks again and please keep those donations rolling in. we have R10 000 donated and number of pledges for monthly donations. thank you all for your support of me but more importantly for FTH:K

And so the rubber hits the road....

Action Dude!

Time for the talk to stop and the action to begin!  Monday morning at 09:30 I take my first tentative pedals at the start of a long journey.  I'm simultaneously apprehensive and excited. Looks like it will be cool with some showers all the way into France. 

Send Off

Many thanks to Pick n Pay, Suzanne Ackerman, Widad Permall and the people of the Corporate Office for the wonderful send-off on thursday. FTH:K presented 20 minutes of their latest play Office Block which everyone enjoyed.

At the PnP Fresh Connection

and the the team came to see me off at the airport



What now?

I'm in a village, called Lydden, in Kent staying with my friend Maeve who will take me to the Cathedral and make sure I ride off into the sunrise.   Today we're going to visit Canterbury and the Cathedral and hopefully have my Pilgrim Passport stamped and validated for the start.  The passport is stamped frequently along the way to prove that you have actually been along the route.  Finally it is presented at the Vatican where one is given a certificate of completion of the pilgrimage.  More pics later!

It's Later

We went to the Cathedral - what a beautiful building.  At the welcome centre a friendly young lady stamped the first of many stamps in my pilgrim passport and showed us the official starting point.
So here I am at the Cathedral Entrance

and this is me - looking like I'm taking a picture of the official starting point but actually asking for a blessing....and wind at my back!

So this is it ....where pilgrim from centuries have started their quest

Exciting.  So the programme for Mon 27th is:

• Meet a reporter from the Kent newspapers at the starting point at 09:00 for a photo and chat
• Say fond farewells
• Leave about 09:30 - the route is
• Canterbury
• Shepherdswell
• Dover
• Ferry across the channel
• Calais
• Wissant
• Guines
• A total of 71 kms and I'll sleep at Guines camp site for the night

See you all here tomorrrow!



Short and Sweet

I'm on a flight to London on Thursday 23 August.
I shall start the ride early on Monday 27th August from the South door of Canterbury Cathedral

South Door Canterbury Cathedral

and by the end of September I shall complete the journey at St Peter's Basilica, The Vatican, Rome

Each day I will post the intended journey for the next day in addition to stories and pictures of the day's travel.  

Please join this site so I know who is following my travels - feel free to comment - I will try to respond to all comments.  You can also follow me on Twitter:  @ElredL #cycletorome

Note I have updated the donations information in the panel on the right.  

Now you can donate by direct deposit, by credit card or even by SMS

Well done Ana Lemmer, CEO of FTH:K for arranging this so quickly!

Below is an invitation to create a link to this post - please add your link and spread the word

Sat 11 August

A day in the life of.......in retrospect

Thursday morning dawned - a pearler of a day to start the test ride.  Shortly after 07:30 I set off into a cold morning.  Within minutes my fingers were frozen and my toes numb.  I cycled along in almost traffic free conditions.  The sky was big and deep blue with the rising sun turning the early morning jet trails a beautiful pink.  Life was just marvellous and I made good time for the first 25 kms up Baden Powell Drive.  The sea of False Bay was calm and turquoise  with soft waves frothing gently to the beach.  Early morning fisherman casting their lines and breathing frosty plumes nodded and waved as I rode by.   Other cyclists and runners greeted me cheerily and wished me well.  It's at those moments when I feel such joy and I really love life, the universe and everything!  As I rode past the shacks of Khayelitsha a gang of laughing, pushing, bubbly, energetic little boys came rushing out to greet me, offering high-fives and asking where I was going and where I came from.  I felt like an Olympic Champion! What a delightful portrayal of the human spirit.

At the intersection with the N2 the fittings on my left front pannier rack gave way and I had to stop, pull out the trusty boy scout multi-tool to remove the rack else it would have damaged my spokes.  I  was grateful that I had remembered to pack cable ties to tether the bag to the rear pannier and continue my journey decidedly unbalanced and with some steering difficulty.

After 40 kms I stopped at the "Big Strawberry" for a Ginger Beer and to rest the legs.  The last 25 kms were much tougher than the first 40 but frequent quick stops and internal bribery kept me going - I could have two jelly babies if I made it to the top of the hill  - then when I achieved that milestone I took three jelly babies and hoped I wouldn't notice....such are the games I play to keep the legs going round.

I was delighted when the signs started pointing me to Muldersvlei Estate which was to be my campsite and home-from-home for two nights.  Helen Starke, a regal and delightful lady,  runs a magnificent function venue for weddings and other parties. Helen is a wonderful hostess, her cottages are  warm and comfortable and the food she creates is delicious. Do look her up if you're in need of a good weekend away. http://www.muldersvlei.com/

View of Muldersvlei Estate and my camp ground

The bike ready to be unpacked

and the tent to be pitched.

I cannot believe I did not take a picture of my tent - I think I was too eager to crawl in and have a nap before Christine, the publicist for FTH:K, arrived for a photo session.  Christine - please send me one so I can publish it here - thanks.  

So just to show I do actually cycle - here's me and my tent - thanks Christine.

And so the first day's ride came to a close - weary legs but no other ill-effects.

My very good friend,Marie Favard, lives in a cottage on the Muldersvlei estate just to the right of the building in the picture above,  She kindly afforded me a hot shower, bought me dinner, brought me copious cups of hot coffee and even made me breakfast on Friday morning.  For your kindness Marie I am ever so grateful - thank you for making my stay so easy and comfortable.  

Day 2 of the DILO.

After breakfast I prepared to ride on, the objective was to ride to Franschhoek, test my legs to the top of the pass then head back to Franschhoek for lunch and a leisurely ride back to Muldersvlei.  By the time I headed out the weather had turned nasty and a strong wind was blowing dark clouds across the landscape. I reviewed the weather forecast for the next two days and decided to head for home while the going was still fairly good.  Barely 2 kms into the ride my right hand side front pannier rack also collapsed, the weather turned worse and I was freezing cold.  I rode to Ludwig's Roses just down the road, where Marie is the manager, to tell her I had decided to go back to Cape Town a day earlier.  Marie, bless her, offered to give me a lift part way to save me a few hours on the road in the awful weather with the second pannier bag now affixed somewhat precariously to the carrier at the rear.  Beyond the call of duty she finally dropped me at Strandfontein, barely an hour's ride for me to get home.  That was so kind, thanks Marie!  

Ludwigs Roses: http://www.ludwigsroses.co.za/

Lessons Learned

I took too much stuff!  After just one and a part days on the road I was overwhelmed with everything that had to be packed and unpacked and tied and untied.  I absolutely cannot see myself riding for 35 days under those circumstances.  This morning I weighed everything.  Bear in mind that I am flying Turkish airlines because they allow 30kgs in economy class:

Bike:                                            15kgs

Box to transport bike by air:           4 kgs

Everthing I packed:                       25 kgs

Total:                                           44 kgs

Moral of the story - I can only take 11kgs of stuff - now that will make a difference to the ride and the frustration levels.  I think I'll ditch the front panniers anyway so I'll only have space in the rear bag.

           Notes to self:

             1. If you carry suntan lotion - then at least use it! I already have too much sunburn on my face.

             2. Sunglasses - remember them

             3. Test the gadgets - I could not write the blog on the journey 'cos of some technical glitches

             4.  Remember to pack all of the connectors and cables for the above gadgets 

             5,  Spare brake blocks - nice idea!

Oh FTH:K are just testing a new platform and way of making your donations - watch the information box on the top right for details.   www.fthk.co.za

And so the countdown begins......

Only 14 days and I will be leaving for England to begin the journey.  However in only 5 hours I will begin a "Day in the life of ....."  A test ride from Cape Town to Stellenbosch (65kms) covering the average distance in a day that I will ride on the Via Francigena.  I will then camp overnight in my new tent and sleeping bag and, if the weather holds, ride a similar 65kms on Friday , camp again in Stellenbosch and then cycle back to Cape Town on Saturday.  Scary though, the weather forecast for Saturday is cold, heavy rain with snow on the mountains and 65km hour winds - maybe I'll ride home on Friday - what do you think?

So tonight (Wed 08 August)....I packed

I took pics so you can see just how much I need to carry - not all of it for the DILO but I do want to replicate everything that I may need or do in Europe.  Look at the stuff I am taking....

I have to fit all of that into my 3 little pannier bags you see at the front of the picture

So here is the bike - as I normally ride it - all sleek and ready to roll

And here it is - very, very heavy.... packed with all that stuff!  I have a feeling that before I leave for Europe I might just trim it down a tad ;o)

Doesn't look like much I know - but think of the ALPS!

Follow me on Thursday 09 August on this blog and on Twitter:  @ElredL  and see how my trial ride goes.

And remember: Please consider donating to FTH:K.  We had a great interview on SAFM on Tue 07 August. I'll find a way to post the MP3 it iswell worth a listen if you want to know more about FTH:K (which, by the way, means "Straight Talking") of course you can always visit their site www.fthk.co.za.

Thanks to Karen Key for having us on her show.  Hasta la vista - I have a long hard day ahead