(78kms)
1702 kms from Canterbury - 372kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233176140
The trail to Gambassi-Terme was tough. 24kms seems innocous enough. I've done it many times and today should be a breeze - I thought. Then Ms V introduced us to the rolling hills of Tuscany. First you ride to the top of one, getting you up to around 500 metres altitude, then you ride country gravel tracks and single tracks over hill and dale. Many ups, many downs but often on slippery, loose stone which is very difficult to ride on whether up or down. Not many pictures were taken and not much lighthearted banter passed between us as all breath was used for panting.
We were happy to see Gambassi on the horizon, but of course it is a hilltop town so much effort is expended just getting to the centre. I've got Keith hooked on my current favourite brew - lemon soda - so we stop for a quick one then off to San Gimignano. This is an interesting city, as many are in this part of Italy, it is a walled city with very interesting architecture and narrow streets. Here we stopped for lunch. There are so many tourists there who took an interest in the two cyclists. We spoke to Canadians, Americans and some South Africans who now live in New Zealand. We had a leisurely lunch until the weather changed, the wind came up and a storm threatened. Nothing quite like that to get you going as quickly as possible. So we made haste to Abadia-a-Isola where we were made warmly welcome by Mario, the manager of the pilgrim hostel. Mario is a very warm kind-hearted soul who takes his function very seriously. There was a French couple and an Italian lady there when we arrived. We were all invited to dinner which was a simple meal of toast with a very nice pork and chili pate followed by pasta in a bacon and tomato sauce, followed by a mushroom tortilla with tomato salad. Really delicious and enjoyed together in a lighthearted camaraderie. That was special.
Mario also performed a ceremony of washing the feet of the pilgrims before supper. It was strange for us but very moving as he washed our feet and dried them after saying a prayer for our health and welfare on the journey. (Good thing we had a shower first.!)
Before we left this morning he had another brief ceremony blessing us for the journey ahead. It is touching and fulfilling to know someone cares so much that this is his life's purpose.
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Day 28 Lucca to San Miniato (Sunday 23rd September)
(53kms)
1658 kms from Canterbury - 415 kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175772
We were awake early and ready for a new adventure. First a ride around the wall, wonderful experience on a beautiful cool and sunny Sunday morning. At that time of day there are but a few runners and dog walkers so it's quiet and peaceful. By 09:00 the wall was already starting to get busy. But by that time we had been for coffee and were relaxing with a sandwich for breakfast.
The ride from Lucca to Altopascio and thence to San Miniato was mostly on tar,through small villages. There was a stretch for about 700 metres that is a section of the original pilgrim road. Very rocky and difficult to ride but it added authenticity to the experience. we arrived in San Miniato in the mid afternoon and cycled up the hill to to top part of the city where the Cathedral and convent are located. There was a sports festival happening with all of the townspeople either demonstrating or participating. After a quick look around we headed back down to our accommodation in the lower part of the town.
It is interesting, the paramedics and emergency organisation called "Misericordia" keep a room with 6 beds and a shower to be made available to pilgrims only for a small donation.
What amazing support for the Francigena pilgrims. In the evening we went back up to San Miniato Alto for a good supper of pasta and pizza. All in all a great day as an introduction for Keith to the Way. More pictures of the day.
1658 kms from Canterbury - 415 kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175772
We were awake early and ready for a new adventure. First a ride around the wall, wonderful experience on a beautiful cool and sunny Sunday morning. At that time of day there are but a few runners and dog walkers so it's quiet and peaceful. By 09:00 the wall was already starting to get busy. But by that time we had been for coffee and were relaxing with a sandwich for breakfast.
The ride from Lucca to Altopascio and thence to San Miniato was mostly on tar,through small villages. There was a stretch for about 700 metres that is a section of the original pilgrim road. Very rocky and difficult to ride but it added authenticity to the experience. we arrived in San Miniato in the mid afternoon and cycled up the hill to to top part of the city where the Cathedral and convent are located. There was a sports festival happening with all of the townspeople either demonstrating or participating. After a quick look around we headed back down to our accommodation in the lower part of the town.
It is interesting, the paramedics and emergency organisation called "Misericordia" keep a room with 6 beds and a shower to be made available to pilgrims only for a small donation.
What amazing support for the Francigena pilgrims. In the evening we went back up to San Miniato Alto for a good supper of pasta and pizza. All in all a great day as an introduction for Keith to the Way. More pictures of the day.
Day 27 - Lucca Rest Day (Saturday 22nd September )
The Leaning Tower
The River in Pisa
Waiting for a train in Pisa - going to Lucca
We caught the train to Lucca and settled in the hostel, just in time to take a stroll through the streets and allow ourselves to be admired by the evening crowds. We stopped at a little Cafe called "La Tana del Boia" where we had excellent beer, not Guiness though. A wheat beer in style made from Farro which is a European variety of wheat we call "Spelt" the friendly owner made us aperitivos - an appetiser of bread, cheese and parma ham.
Then to Da Leo for another delicious meal. Keith really enjoyed the Tortellini. Back to the hostel to prepare for the ride tomorrow.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Day 26 - Fiumaretti to Pisa to Lucca (Friday 21st September)
(67 kms)
From Canterbury - 1626 To Rome - 448
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175687
After a good breakfast, I left Fiumaretti to ride the 25 kms I was short the previous night to Pietrasanta. It was a good brisk ride along flat roads next to the Mediterranean. Pity I could not see it as every inch of the space between the road and the beach is taken up with restaurants, clubs, camping and holiday resorts. At Pietrasanta, I checked the routes and decided I really wanted to get to Lucca and not bundu bash for the day. So I stayed on the tar. The road to Lucca goes via Pisa so I stopped there for a drink - lemon soda is my latest craze.... and yes the tower is still leaning! I asked a policeman for directions to Lucca and he showed me the way, remarking that there is a steep hill climb on the way. That did it for me. I'd already ridden 67kms and was not in the mood for another 20 something with a steep hill. I went to the railway station and caught a train to Lucca as they have trains that take bikes.
I arrived in Lucca about 14:00 and easily found my way to the hostel...... simply ride on the wall until you get to the part of town you need. How cool is that? No traffic lights, no one way streets, no cars, excellent.
Keith booked us into a good hostel where I am staying tonight and we'll stay tomorrow.
On arrival I had 2 major priorities. First, laundry, second, take the bike in to be serviced. It has been creaking and groaning a lot the last 3 days. We had a serious chat, my bike and me, and I promised that if it gets me to Lucca I'll take it to the clinic (of course, you understand that was the main motivation behind catching the train, so as not to strain the bike any further). I found a laundry, popped the washing into the machine (my clothes really needed a proper wash so I put on my swimmimg costume, my long sleeve cycling shirt that I hardly wear and shoes without socks so I could wash everything else). There are many bicycle vendors in Lucca because the demand for rental bikes is huge with every visitor wanting to ride around the walls. It's a must do, like going to Pisa and posing for a picture like you're holding up the tower!
Within 20 metres of the laundry I found a bike shop that would service the bike. Awesome. I am so glad I took it in because the back wheel bearing was going, four spokes needed to be replaced, my one pedal cleat was breaking so I had the pedals replaced and the brakes needed replacement. Now it feels like a new bike.
So I have clean, dry, sweet smelling laundry and a repaired bike. Rest days are good.
For supper I went to Trattoria Da Leo, great food.
Primi Piatti Tortelli al Ragu di Carne. A local speciality, delicious, Tortellini with Bolognaise sauce and lots of Parmesan
Secondi Piatti Furaona al ginepro e aceto balsamico. Guinea fowl with junipers and balsamic vinegar. Superb. Along with half a bottle of wine, coffee and Grappa.
Now that's a satisfying day.... aaaaah did I say that? Sorry Ms V!
I really enjoy Lucca. It has incredible atmosphere and is quite unique.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Day 25 - Pontermoli to Fiumaretta (Thursday 20th September)
(92 kms)
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175565
The day started in good fashion. I know I changed my destination to Massa instead of Pietrasanta but in the morning when I went through the detailed planning for the day I realised that the reason I'd chosen to end at Pietrasanta is because there was an alternate route that followed the beachfront roads and so I could see the Mediterranean. I revised my plans and set off for my first point, Aulla. I followed the official Italian Francigena cycling trail. It was wonderful, high on the slope of the mountain, following the course of the Magra River, riding on good tracks through cool green forest. What a way to start the day.
In Aulla I checked the next section, 17kms across the mountain to Sarzanna. Based on my experience so far, sounds tough but a good ride.
Let me interject here with a lesson I have now learned on this trail. Never admit to a satisfying day because the Ms V Francigena takes out the big monkey wrench and tightens the nuts (in a manner of speaking - you get the gist). The first 8 kms was a challenging uphill ride to a mountain top village called Barleto. At the very top the guide book said "turn away from Barleto centre, there is a VF sign and a path, take the path and after 1100 metres turn left uphill towards the quarry". Off I go but the directions don't seem right, however I keep seeing VF signs (often just red and white stripe on trees or posts to let you know you're on the path). So I go on, at 1100 metres there is an upward sign but it is theVF walking path - no bike can go there - but also there's a fork to the left. So I continue merrily, another 3kms down through the valley, still seeing VF marks but no quarry. Eventually I run out of road, path, track, whatever. I backtrack and find someone to ask. He just shakes his head and says "Why would you be crazy enough to cycle across the mountain when there is a perfectly good road going round it?" I explain about following the VF trail and he indicates that I need to go back across the valley and up to Barleto and on another path from there. Gritting my teeth I backtrack all through the valley and way up to the mountain top village. Here I discover that I should have gone 30 metres further uphill then taken another track that seems well marked. So off I go. At the right distance I find two roads fork to the left and no mark to say which one. So I try them both, after 3 kms on each (and back) still no turn to a quarry..... Not even a quarry. So back to the village and try one last time. Once again I end up in the bush and nothing matches where I am supposed to be. Now i've spent 3 hours not getting anywhere so I find a road that goes downwards and head back towards Aulla. The road I'm on intersects the main road to Sarzanna so gratefully I turn left. In 30 mins I'm in Sarzanna. No wonder the man giving me directions was bemused.
I'm irritated and tired so I stop for an ice cream and review the next section. It's back in the bush and across another mountain but I don't mind that because it branches off towards the sea and I can ride to Pietrasanta along the beach road instead of going through Massa. Grand plan, let's go. Just outside of town the way is up a steep grass track that I cannot ride. Now irritation turns to frustration and I say "no more for today"!
I look at my map of North Italy and I see that I can go to a town called Lerici then take a road along the beach front that leads to Pietrasanta.
Squeak. That's the sound of the nuts tightening. Never abandon Ms V!! I had the most beautiful ride for the next four hours. I rode along mountain roads, uphill and downhill, past wonderful beachfronts, little inlets, beaches, expensive hotels, restaurants, tourists everywhere strolling around enjoying themselves. It really was lovely but it took me absolutely nowhere closer to Pietrasanta. At 17:00 I found a man who speaks english and explained my plight. He directed me to the correct road, warning me that I had a steep uphill climb to Montemarcello before the road leads down to Boca di Magra where I can connect with the road to Pietrasanta. It was getting close to sunset by the time I made it down to Boca and found the right road, so I checked in at the local Albergo in Fiumaretta for the night. This is the first time I've not made my designated stopover but I don't regret it I thoroughly enjoyed the ride and the countryside. Very tired though after all the bundu bashing and then the mountain riding. Quick supper of a rather bland lasagne with prawns that I definitely could have cooked better and then to bed.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
Day 24 - Fornovo-di-Taro to Pontremoli (Wednesday 19th September) - UPDATED
(64kms)
1533 kms from Canterbury
541kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175430
First let me tell you about my stay at the Giardino del Gusto (The Garden of Pleasure).
Pauli and his wife Erica are a friendly, welcoming couple. I discovered that they were not in the kitchen making supper just for me, they run a busy restaurant at night. Erica in particular really took me to her heart and went out of her way to make my stay special. This morning for breakfast I saw that they ate a fairly standard fare of coffee and bread with Nutella. For my breakfast, Erica brought me the exactly the same, then she added in a slice of chocolate brownie tart and a slice of really delicious cherry pie. Then I think the Italian mama in her came out and she offered me eggs as well. Erica fried me a fresh farm egg in fresh farm butter and then added in several slices of melon. Clearly I need mothering and being fed well for my day. I thoroughly enjoyed staying there. See the picture below of Erica and me just before I left today. Grazie Mille Erica.
So about today's ride. It was a day of ups and downs. In the Appenines for real and they demanded respect today. The guide book made it clear that this was not a day for trying to follow the off-road trail with a bicycle as there are steep slopes, rivers to ford and crags to climb. Gratefully I accepted the offer of an alternate route - basically stay on the tar all the way. I like it when it's their suggestion then I do not feel guilty. I've discovered though, that when it comes to mountain passes it's the safest to stay on the road. The first section says 17 kilometres to Cassio. Nice and easy I think to myself, for the start of the day with a full tummy. But I was forgetting Ms V Francigena who hates it when I get too comfortable. By the time I reached Cassio I had cycled uphill all the way changing altitude from 148 metres at the start to 910 metres just before Cassio. But it was a good uphill ride, never too steep but plenty to get the heart pumping and the legs warm. A downhill took me into Cassio at 756 metres where I stopped for a drink and a refill of waterbottles. Onward and upward to Berceto reaching 960 metres before descending to 850 metres in Berceto. The following picture is for the Grand Prix fans out there;
At this altitude it's cold, an icy wind is blowing, thick clouds are threatening rain and a mist is starting to roll down the mountain, sound familiar? Too familiar for my liking. I stopped to pull on my fleecy top then headed for the Cisa Pass that I knew is the highest point on my ride. After 44kms since starting the day I arrive at the top of the Cisa Pass, 1041 metres altitude. Then despite the cold I enjoy a lovely gentle 30 km descent to Pontremoli on a beautiful road with very little traffic.
The cycling today was just fantastic, much better than the flat plains. I love the challenge of the uphills and the reward of the downhills. Life is just awesome and I am so grateful to have this incredible experience. I stopped in the main Piazza for a hot cup of coffee and met with and chatted to an American couple, Jesse and Joy, from near Palm Springs. Happy holiday!
I managed to locate a restaurant, Trattoria Norina, that was recommended in Sylvia Nillsen's blog from when she and four other crazy Durban ladies walked from Lausanne to Rome. So that's where I will be dining tonight. The convent where I am staying is very nice and it is close to town. How lucky am I?
All in all, I would say that was a very satisfying day. Tomorrow I will stop in Massa not Pietrasanta as originally planned. Then from there I'll be able to reach Lucca in the early afternoon. In time to get settled and plan to meet Keith at Pisa Airport on Saturday when flies in to cycle the last eight days with me to Rome. I am so looking forward to sharing some of these experiences with him.
UPDATE
Having done all the good stuff, shower, shave, shampoo etc I head out for a pint and a good dinner. I choose a popular pub, have a dark Belgian ale and off to Trattoria Norina. Since Sylvia wrote the blog, Norina has retired but her daughter runs the establishment. As I walk in I am greeted like an old friend by three other pilgrims, one, a Frenchman, whom I met and chatted to at the Tourist office and the other two, Italians, who checked into the convent at the same time as me. The Frenchman spoke a little English and was used as a part time translator but mostly the conversation was multi-lingual with most of us understanding some of what was being said. What an enjoyable evening, we shared a meal, some wine, coffee and good Grappa. I had the best meal so far. I started with Testaroli, which sounds a lot worse than it is. It's a regional speciality where they make a crepe from a special flour mix and (I think) let it ferment a bit. Then they cover it in a delicious pesto. It really is a superb dish. I followed that with Osso Bucco, one of my favourite dishes. Unknown to me the two Italians had negotiated an all in price of 15 Euros for the entire meal. So not only was it good but it was cheap.
What a satisfying end to a satisfying day.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
1533 kms from Canterbury
541kms to Rome
Garmin Record: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/233175430
First let me tell you about my stay at the Giardino del Gusto (The Garden of Pleasure).
Pauli and his wife Erica are a friendly, welcoming couple. I discovered that they were not in the kitchen making supper just for me, they run a busy restaurant at night. Erica in particular really took me to her heart and went out of her way to make my stay special. This morning for breakfast I saw that they ate a fairly standard fare of coffee and bread with Nutella. For my breakfast, Erica brought me the exactly the same, then she added in a slice of chocolate brownie tart and a slice of really delicious cherry pie. Then I think the Italian mama in her came out and she offered me eggs as well. Erica fried me a fresh farm egg in fresh farm butter and then added in several slices of melon. Clearly I need mothering and being fed well for my day. I thoroughly enjoyed staying there. See the picture below of Erica and me just before I left today. Grazie Mille Erica.
So about today's ride. It was a day of ups and downs. In the Appenines for real and they demanded respect today. The guide book made it clear that this was not a day for trying to follow the off-road trail with a bicycle as there are steep slopes, rivers to ford and crags to climb. Gratefully I accepted the offer of an alternate route - basically stay on the tar all the way. I like it when it's their suggestion then I do not feel guilty. I've discovered though, that when it comes to mountain passes it's the safest to stay on the road. The first section says 17 kilometres to Cassio. Nice and easy I think to myself, for the start of the day with a full tummy. But I was forgetting Ms V Francigena who hates it when I get too comfortable. By the time I reached Cassio I had cycled uphill all the way changing altitude from 148 metres at the start to 910 metres just before Cassio. But it was a good uphill ride, never too steep but plenty to get the heart pumping and the legs warm. A downhill took me into Cassio at 756 metres where I stopped for a drink and a refill of waterbottles. Onward and upward to Berceto reaching 960 metres before descending to 850 metres in Berceto. The following picture is for the Grand Prix fans out there;
At this altitude it's cold, an icy wind is blowing, thick clouds are threatening rain and a mist is starting to roll down the mountain, sound familiar? Too familiar for my liking. I stopped to pull on my fleecy top then headed for the Cisa Pass that I knew is the highest point on my ride. After 44kms since starting the day I arrive at the top of the Cisa Pass, 1041 metres altitude. Then despite the cold I enjoy a lovely gentle 30 km descent to Pontremoli on a beautiful road with very little traffic.
The cycling today was just fantastic, much better than the flat plains. I love the challenge of the uphills and the reward of the downhills. Life is just awesome and I am so grateful to have this incredible experience. I stopped in the main Piazza for a hot cup of coffee and met with and chatted to an American couple, Jesse and Joy, from near Palm Springs. Happy holiday!
I managed to locate a restaurant, Trattoria Norina, that was recommended in Sylvia Nillsen's blog from when she and four other crazy Durban ladies walked from Lausanne to Rome. So that's where I will be dining tonight. The convent where I am staying is very nice and it is close to town. How lucky am I?
All in all, I would say that was a very satisfying day. Tomorrow I will stop in Massa not Pietrasanta as originally planned. Then from there I'll be able to reach Lucca in the early afternoon. In time to get settled and plan to meet Keith at Pisa Airport on Saturday when flies in to cycle the last eight days with me to Rome. I am so looking forward to sharing some of these experiences with him.
UPDATE
Having done all the good stuff, shower, shave, shampoo etc I head out for a pint and a good dinner. I choose a popular pub, have a dark Belgian ale and off to Trattoria Norina. Since Sylvia wrote the blog, Norina has retired but her daughter runs the establishment. As I walk in I am greeted like an old friend by three other pilgrims, one, a Frenchman, whom I met and chatted to at the Tourist office and the other two, Italians, who checked into the convent at the same time as me. The Frenchman spoke a little English and was used as a part time translator but mostly the conversation was multi-lingual with most of us understanding some of what was being said. What an enjoyable evening, we shared a meal, some wine, coffee and good Grappa. I had the best meal so far. I started with Testaroli, which sounds a lot worse than it is. It's a regional speciality where they make a crepe from a special flour mix and (I think) let it ferment a bit. Then they cover it in a delicious pesto. It really is a superb dish. I followed that with Osso Bucco, one of my favourite dishes. Unknown to me the two Italians had negotiated an all in price of 15 Euros for the entire meal. So not only was it good but it was cheap.
What a satisfying end to a satisfying day.
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here: http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Donations - Thank you
Thank you very much to everyone who has donated funds for FTH:K through support for my ride. We have managed to raise R15 000.00 so far through various donors and pledges.
I would like to acknowledge the following donors with thanks for their very generous contributions.
- The Ackerman Foundation R5000.00
- Kerry McElwee R1000.00
- Derek Rushmere R500.00
- Colleen Sutherland R500.00
- Nick Schild R500.00
- The Bergvliet Lions Club R500.00
Monthly Pledges
Colin Scholtz R50.00 per month for 2 years
And a special thanks to all of you who entered the Pick nPay Fresh FM competition.
Please make sure that Ana of FTH:K knows of your pledge or donation so that I can add my thanks here on this blog.
Keep those donations coming and do encourage your friends to do the same
Follow me on:
Facebook - Elred Lawrence
Twitter - @ElredL
This blog - www.cyclingtorome.blogspot.com
A big, big thank you to @Freshfmct - they are offering the chance to win a R1 000 Pick n Pay gift voucher AND 50,000 Smart Shopper Points worth R500! Awesome! Support Elred's trip for FTH:K by donating R20 or more. Enter via SMS or deposit directly into FTH:K's account (for direct deposits reference Elred and your name and contact number) and stand the chance to win! See sms and bank details here:
http://cyclingtorome.blogspot.com/
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